Kanazawa

​Kanazawa was sort of a last minute add to our itinerary, mostly based on a location that worked to help us see some other things, and we heard it was a beautiful spot to see, so we added two nights in to this city on the western coast of the main island.

We had picked up a car when we left Hakone. Sure, driving is intimidating and probably not necessary in this country with so much public transportation, but after this, we head into the national parks with hopes of doing some great hikes, so a car makes sense. It meant we got to enjoy the countryside yesterday, with some entertaining roadside stops and a visit to a remote village. Driving on the other side of the road takes some concentration, but thankfully a year in England helped prepare me! Apple Maps made things easy, drivers seem to be understanding with very little road rage, and signs to places are generally in Japanese and English, so it was not too bad! 

Much of the drive was on a large highway, sometimes with Fuji in the rear view. We stopped at a large roadside  stop with absolutely stunning bathrooms and an entire food court. Why not try a little something? So, we tried some venison dumplings, and well, they did not disappoint! When we needed some more snacks later on in our five hour drive, we stopped by a Lawson’s. 7-11s, FamilyMart and Lawson’s are all over the place and offer a similarly wide variety of items, but we had not really explored a Lawson’s yet. Well man, we hit the jackpot! The candy type cheese (which tasted like tiny babybels) and the crispy croissant snacks in truffle butter flavor were truly fantastic! 

Shirakawa-go was our first destination of this road trip, and it was adorable and in a gorgeous setting. The tiny village in the valley has ancient roots, but it became more of what it is today about 300 years ago. It was often used as a hideout for samurai and their families that had lost or fallen from grace. The homes with thatched roofs were designed to look like praying hands. The attic levels are meant for silkworm farming. We enjoyed just wandering through the village, looking at the small rice paddies, and eating a delicious sugar and cinnamon crepe (I’m sure they had those in ancient times!). 

While in Kanazawa, which is a coastal city, we ate three delicious meals of sashimi. It was all utterly delicious, even though I feel like I’ve eaten a whole koi of raw fish (don’t worry, I don’t think any of it was actually koi😉). Our first night we were the only customers at Katzumoto Katzumoto. We sat at the counter, and had a gorgeous salad with flowers, an egg, and even carrots cut in the shape of a butterfly. For lunch the next day, we ate lunch in a former geisha’s house at Banrai with an amazing spread of sashimi. On our last night, while we spent more than intended, our meal at Shokudo Tsuki of grilled asparagus, tuna sashimi, and sushi rolls was divine! 

We started our touring of Kanazawa at Kenrokuen, the famous gardens on the hillside overlooking the city. They were tranquil and elegantly simplistic. Water flowed freely and the grounds were covered in moss. 

When we decided to visit Kanazawa, we could tell that it was not nearly as much of a tourist city as some that we have visited as there were not nearly as many tours offered. But, we found one that worked perfectly, a walking tour of the city that included some visits to learn more about old crafting techniques along with a traditional lunch. When we showed up to meet our guide, we realized we were in for another incredible treat: our own personal tour with another retired teacher! Tomo was delightful, and such a joy to spend our day with!

We walked through a shrine and learned a little more of the history of the area. At one point, several hundred years ago, Kanazawa was a powerful area. (Also, since it has not been a powerhouse in a few hundred years, it bypassed damage from many recent wars, so more buildings remain intact here.) When shoguns had the power above the emperor, the areas around the country were generally ruled by lords. The former lords of this area was the wealthiest, so they were viewed as a threat to the shogun. The lord built up a castle with large defensive walls, and around the city, several samurai neighborhoods were built as an outer layer of protection for the lord. Although much of this time was peaceful, and one lord greatly valued the arts, defensiveness was still crucial for this area. 

We even visited the “Ninja Temple.” It was one of the coolest buildings I’ve been in. While it is still a Buddhist Temple, it was built as a defensive building. It is not all that large, in fact at the time it was built, buildings were not allowed to be over two stories tall. While it appears that way from the outside, it is actually four stories and multiple “layers.” There are twenty-nine staircases, including hidden ones that are revealed by moving planks of wood or in the backs of closets. One staircase is light colored so that from the inside, servants could see where feet landed and puncture the thin fabric to easily injure approaching enemies. The well is said to have connected to a tunnel that went all the way to the castle, miles away. There were sliding doors that revealed new passageways designed to confuse attackers and the money collection area could easily be lifted and become a deep trap. Truly incredible architecture! We couldn’t take photos inside, but here are the light stairs from the outside: 

Tomo’s first stop on the crafting part of the tour was to a Japanese lacquer studio. This practice has been in place, in some form or another, for thousands of years, finding ways to protect and water seal works of art. For the last few hundred years, it has been made in a similar way by taking sap of a particular tree. The urushi is cleaned, purified, and mixed with different chemicals to creat different colors. (We were told not to touch anything in the studio as it may cause us to itch. The internet has now told me it is a relative of poison ivy, so no wonder!) It’s a long, careful process which is most often passed down by generations like the mother and son that we met. 

We also visited a wagasa factory. These are the carefully and ornately decorated paper umbrellas you see in Japan. The factory we visited had been in place since the late nineteenth century. The handmade paper that covers the bamboo pieces is so strong that snow and rain don’t damage it. Not only is the outside a work of art, but the woven string on the inside adds a glorious touch. The factory we visited is the only one left in the area, but celebrities from Michael Jackson to David Attenborough to the emperor of Japan have all visited the shop. 

Tomo also took us to a gorgeous, well preserved home in the samurai district. When I think samurai, I think of a warrior with a sword. This is not exactly correct. Think of it as more of an aristocrat who probably had a job/high role in the community. Sure, during times of war, they were called up to fight, but most of the time they were more right hand men to the lords. It was a title that was inherited. The simple, but elegant house had no furniture (which was common), but had glorious private gardens. Our time with Tomo was delightful and educational! 

With only a little bit more free time in Kanazawa, we wandered through the fish market as well as the wide variety of shops that were in the stunning train station. Yes, although we drove a car to Kanazawa, we visited the train station just to try the shopping, and I’m so glad we did. Notice the clock outside. Look closely. 

Yep, the CLOCK is a fountain! Amazing! 

Our time Kanazawa was brief, but I think it was enough for us to get a great taste (we did eat a lot…). Our hotel (Hotel Amanek) was in a very convenient location and it was simple and perfectly adequate.  I enjoyed our time here, but I’m not sure I’ll feel the need to come back here on my next trip to Japan. 

Fuji Five Lakes

When Jessica and I planned this trip, we always had the intention of making sure that we got out of the big cities and saw some things off the beaten path. We decided to stay fairly central in Japan rather than take the time to venture too far to the north or the south. And so we began to find some exciting and unique areas in central Japan. One of them that came up was the Fuji Five Lakes region. Because of our time in England, we keep calling at the Lake District, although that is not what it is called. However, I believe I could compare it in beauty to England’s Lake District. 

Rob and Samantha eagerly agreed to join us on an adventure. We found a pretty neat spot where we could have separate cabins but still be staying in the same area (Kawaguchiko Country Cottage Ban). So, we got to spend one more weekend with them while we were here in Japan! 

Although Fuji is enormously tall and looks over this area, she had alluded us until we caught a quick glimpse of her on our train ride from Kyoto to Hakone. On Friday, when we arrived to the lake area, we could see her from our front porch, and she showed off her beauty all night. We were able to go find a lovely viewpoint and see her across the lake!  

On our first full day here, I believe it rained for about 30 hours straight. It was never very hard rain, but it meant that seeing Fuji again or enjoying some of the hiking areas around was a lot more difficult. But of course, we made the most of things. We went into a couple of caves around here that even have ice inside of them, we went to a gem museum where we fascinated at all sorts of beautiful stones, we went to a nostalgic toy museum which was honestly more on the creepy side than the adorable one, and we also went to a music museum, which was fascinating in and of itself. The museum has a gorgeous setting with rose gardens all around, and it almost feels like you have been transported to Europe. In fact, the sidewalk is lined with British flags. As soon as you enter, you can rent a stunning evening gown to wear around the property while you visit. Inside there are multiple buildings with all sorts of history about musical instruments. Concerts of different types go on about every 30 minutes in a couple different locations. We went to one where automatic instruments played. I really only knew of the piano that could play on its own, but we watched one piano with a xylophone and cymbals that also played at the same time and another with violins on the inside! Another room hosted a giant pipe organ, along with figurines, holding instruments. When the pipe organ began playing, the figurines played their instruments at the appropriate time on the appropriate beat. They even had workshops where you could make your own music boxes. Honestly, it was a baffling and astounding sort of place. 

For dinner, we went to an amazing small local place (Izakaya Tatsumi) where we were able to order more tapas size plates so that we could try everything including delicious sashimi, Wagyu beef on skewers, fried cheese, and fried rice balls. (Thankfully, they started us off with a small salad of lettuce and cucumbers!) 

Sunday, though, the sun came out in full force, and I couldn’t have been more thankful we had an extra day here! Rob and Samantha took the kids to an activity park where the kids had a blast with putt-putt and laser tag, while we went chasing some waterfalls. After all the rain, it seemed like the perfect time, and the three waterfalls we found did not disappoint. They were stunning, a bit secluded and even part of a shrine. We also wandered around a park where the hydrangeas and view of Fuji were both in full bloom. 

In the afternoon, wish a mix of blue skies and clouds we went to a popular spot in the city, the Chureito Pagoda. While it is lovely on its own, it was the reward of the view after all of those stairs that makes it such a popular spot! 

On Sunday night, to celebrate Father’s Day, Rob decided he wanted to grill out, and thankfully, he shared with us! The cabins we stayed in had great grills and Rob bought some delicious cuts of meat, and well, we tried them all! 

It was such a treat to get this bonus time with my friends, but especially in such a gorgeous place! 

Hakone

​Hakone was suggested to me, and I’m so glad that we came to this little mountain area. It is starkly different from Kyoto as it is really a collection of small mountain towns near a lake. It would sort of be like saying you were visiting Blue Ridge, Georgia. While there is a lot to see and do, it is over a large, expansive area. So, we bought the Hakone Pass which allowed us to take a wide variety of transportation to see the beauty around here! We traveled by train, bus, cable-car, rope-way(gondola), and even a boat! With the expansive scenery, all of these are both a means of getting from one to another as well as a sight-seeing journey. High season is around here is the fall and spring with maples and cherry trees, but right now, we got to enjoy a plethora of stunning and unique hydrangeas. The adorable train did something rather remarkable. It traveled down over 400 meters in about 40 minutes, and some of this drop was made possible with switchbacks. I’d never seen that on a train, but we would pull in somewhere, then reverse and go down a different track! 

We enjoyed a chilly cruise across the lake one evening, taking in the surrounding countryside. We also walked to the beautiful torii gates that are in the water, symbolizing peace. 

The ropeway up the mountain is always a fun way to travel! It took us to the small stop of Owakudani. Here, the land is starkly different from the lush green landscape surrounding it. Instead, it looks like a desert, with plumes of smoke rising in various locations and the strong smell of sulphur fills the air as it is part of a volcanic valley. Over 1,000 years ago, a statue was built in this place to prolong one’s life. Now, eggs are boiled in the hot spring pond which turns the shells black. Because the number seven is lucky here, and the statue was built to prolong life, it is now said that if you eat a black egg, you will prolong your life by seven years! I hate boiled eggs. The only kind of eggs I really enjoy are scrambled. But, when there is a chance to participate in local tradition AND expand my lifespan, well, I couldn’t let this pass me by. It was not horrible, however, smelling rotten egg smell while eating an egg did not make it more pleasant. 

We continued our journey to the Hakone Outdoor Museum. It was so much fun! I am not one who appreciates modern art as much as one should, but, I absolutely loved this unique museum! It was a huge, expansive garden area with modern art sprinkled amongst the garden paths. I loved the koi pond with floating art, the sunny-side eggs, the giant tower with thousands of pieces of colored glass, and the concrete wall maze in the shape of a star. 

With a little time on our hands, we decided to stop by the Hakone Craft House. It was also such a unique place! In the middle of this large beautifully landscaped park, there are different buildings that offer different classes in all sorts of different crafts from glass bead making to pottery to blown glass. We didn’t book ahead, but instead showed up and asked what was available. So, we took an hour long class on kiriko glass cutting! We were both a little out of our comfort zone, but we had so much fun! Our instructor was great, and for about an hour we learned the art, practiced and then etched the glass of our own sake glasses! 

We enjoyed the Mishima Skywalk even though this beautiful vista was covered in clouds so we didn’t get to see the stunning Mt. Fuji. The large suspension bridge is 400 meters long and does provide stunning views of the valley below. We also ate the special blue ice cream that you can only get here. It’s crafted of rich local dairy milk and butterfly pea. (Yes, pea, not pee.) 

Speaking of food, while Hakone may not have been our best food stop, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention some of the delicious foods we ate: tiny hamburgers on a stick, black sesame dangos, a chicken teriyaki hot dog and hydrangea ice cream. 

One of the other big attractions of this area is the natural hot springs. We decided we should take advantage of the one in our hotel. But first, let me explain how onsens (Japanese hot springs) work. You’re naked. Completely, 100% no clothes. It was certainly intimidating at first, and we were a little nervous, but we read as much as we could ahead of time and decided, “When in Rome!” The rooms are divided into one for men and one for women, which I greatly appreciated. Our room provided us with robes, so we walked through the hotel in our large robes that certainly covered us. Then, in the women’s locker room, we left it all behind. Yep, you walk around the locker room in your birthday suit, then go into the hot springs room. Before getting into the pools, you go to a small, somewhat private shower stalls where you sit and wash completely with the soap provided. Then, you’re welcomed into the pools. There was one inside and one outside and even a sauna. The water was so hot! I found myself going to rinse in the cold water in the shower stalls a couple of times and then returning to the hot water. No matter what, I was blown away by the quiet respect and acceptance of all of the women! (No photos of this for obvious reasons! 🤣)

Our first evening in Hakone, we noticed a weird vibe. It almost seemed like a ghost town. Sure, we encountered people, but very few despite the long zig zag rope lines at attractions. In many of the small towns, some buildings seemed a bit dilapidated, and it was very hard to find a restaurant that was open for dinner. Our hotel is lovely, but we seem to be bringing the average age down a fair amount, and perhaps our hotel (Yumoto Fujiya) had its glory days when the patrons were young. Don’t get me wrong, we’ve had great service and the staff are exceptionally friendly. It has fancy little touches everywhere, and yet, when you look closer, it’s like it hasn’t been updated in a while. I say all of this, because it, too, kind of adds to the “ghost town” vibe. We did learn a few things that helped to explain this. High season is when nature is showing off: cherry blossom season and maple leaf season. Also, many people come here as a day trip from Tokyo which is why most places (food and shops) close by 5. Now, would I still recommend this place? Absolutely! Just know this coming in, and know that you don’t need a long time to see most of what there is to see. Hakone was a lovely place to visit, and a great way to get off the beaten path a bit!