Puno

When you begin to research Peru as a place to visit, the wide variety of landscapes provide for many interesting opportunities outside of the famous Machu Picchu. Lake Titicaca is one of them.

Few people visit the Bolivian side of the lake (which I would recommend!), so we knew that we needed to visit the ever popular Peruvian side. As this side is so much more popular, tour companies abound.

When reading about the islands that exist in the Peruvian side of the lake, I knew I wanted to visit Uros and Taquile. This is where most tours go. And so, it was easy to find a full-day tour to take us out amongst the islands. I believe there were ways to make it there on your own by ferries, but after our tour, I must admit that I’m not quite sure I know how that would have worked.

Our tour to the islands was just what it needed to be, but we are not tour group people, and that’s the way we had to visit the islands. I know I’ve talked about our food tours and even the tour across the Bolivian desert, but in each of those, our group numbered about half a dozen which meant interactions between fellow travelers were easy (and even encouraged) and I could ask my plethora of questions to the guide. Yesterday, we were on a floating tour bus. But, I got to see what I wanted to see, and had we done it on our own, I believe we would have been very lost and lacking in so much of the information.

Uros is a community of floating islands just off the Puno Bay. The water is not terribly deep, and it is full of reeds. These ingenious people spend two years creating an island that will house 3-7 families. They start with the blocks of roots of the reeds, tie them together and then begin adding layer upon layer of reeds on top of them. Even after living on the island, they continually add to it as the reeds die down. The islands usually last 30-40 years. There are currently over 100 floating islands.

A few years ago, one of the presidents of Peru spent a night on an island. Since then, he helped put a bathroom with a septic tank on each island. The tiny huts, also made of reeds, have solar panels which support some basic electrical needs. There is a school on one of the islands and a hospital that is supported by doctors from Puno several days a month.

I asked our guide (because yes, even in a crowd, I found ways to ask Hugo questions!) how long people had been living this way and why they continued to. He said that when the Incans first invaded the land, the fishermen of the area knew the reeds so well, that they escaped with their families to live in boats out in the water. They were left alone and so slowly but surely built up their own community. Today, they seem to like the freedom it provides. Sure, they frequently go in to Puno, but they are not held to the strict standards of living and working that society often demands of us all.

The women on the island we stopped on (we only met women, but I know there were male residents as well) were welcoming and loved explaining their way of life and how they built the island. We were even invited into their home to see how they lived. They were lovely and genuine, but as you can only expect, then came the part where they used tourism to their advantage. They brought out their artistic creations for sale and offered us a boat ride on their special boat (that of course we took) for an extra fee. Of course I’m happy to support people who welcome us into their homes and show us their unique way of living, it just always makes me feel awkward like they’re forced to put on a show for us tourists. That being said, I was incredibly thankful for the opportunity.

An hour and a half later, the boat reached Taquile Island. It’s an island similarly sized to our island (what we are now lovingly calling Island of the Sun) and of similar geography. The terraced land and sparse trees was very similar to our island as was the lack of motorized vehicles, but we noticed no donkeys! And, the main path, rather than ancient stairways was a concrete and rock inclined pathway.

People on this island are known for their textile creations. Even more impressively, the men and women take equal share in these creations. The detail and the tightness in which their works were made was astounding. They have spent generations perfecting the craft and it shows! Once again, the people were incredibly welcoming, put on a dance for us and then began to share their works of art at the market stalls.

We had a delicious meal on the island, which was even more impressive considering that there were forty of us eating at the same time! There was warm quinoa soup, fresh trout from the lake and a hot tea made with local herbs.

After a peaceful ride back to town, we meandered through the city to our lovely hotel. It is right on a main square where a fountain is brightly lit by ever changing colors at night and locals and tourists alike sit and enjoy ice cream on the benches from one of the four ice cream shops on the small square.

We ate dinner at one of the top restaurants in town, also located on the square. I had quinoa salad with fresh vegetables, cubes of cheese and an avocado dressing with a warm squash soup and hot red wine out of a terra cotta mug. It was divine and totaled up to about $12. We are thoroughly enjoying living like queens in regards to food.

There’s not a whole lot else to do in the city that caters to taking tourists out to the island, so we spend most of our bonus day climbing stairs. In fact, I believe that we climbed more steps than I thought were feasibly possible in any one place, and at an altitude of well over 12,000 feet. 

Puno sits even with the lake and slowly but surely edges upward into the surrounding hillsides. So, of course if you climb up, you are rewarded with a wonderful view. And what city wouldn’t take advantage of this by creating venues for viewing? So, on one side of the city, a giant condor overlooks the city and lake below. On another side of the city (yes, we had to walk down and then back up) an oversized puma and two large cobras keep watch over the city.

We meandered down to the water (stairs are so much easier to go down than up) and discovered a small flock of flamingos amongst the ducks and seagulls enjoying the shallows of the lagoon.

I do not regret our time in Puno at all, but we head to Cusco next where many of our exciting adventures happen from, and I must admit that I’m looking very forward to that!

Island of the Sun

The Salt Flats and the Island of the Sun were top of my list when reading about Bolivia, and once again, it did not disappoint.

When we were on our journeys through the high desert, we talked a lot about where our travels through South America had/were taking us. We mentioned coming to the Island of the Sun and Kiri said, “I went there! There is nothing to do there.” In unison, Jess and I said, “Perfect!”

After several days of rigorous travel, and a few sleepless nights and odd hours, three nights on a remote island with no cars was exactly what we needed. Our time on this island in the sprawling Lake Titicaca has been perfectly restful and rejuvenating. Life on the island is simpler and slower. I say that as a tourist who is thankful for the absence of car horns and the presence of donkey brays. But, life for the islanders is far from simple.

This island, according to Incan myths is the birthplace of the Sun God as well as the world’s first two Incans. While Lake Titicaca itself is the highest navigable water in the world and reaches depths of 920 feet, the Island of the Sun stands even higher above sea level. So, when you arrive, you walk up the ancient Incan stairs to “the fountain of youth,” which, sadly, we felt drinking from may bring us other, unwanted things, rather than perpetual youth.

Unfortunately, I do not speak Spanish, and since we did not take any tours here (nor am I sure ones are offered), what I learned about this island is learned through research and observation. If I say something that is incorrect, please inform me!

Our goal was to relax, rehydrate and enjoy some down time. An eight mile hike certainly doesn’t sound relaxing, but for these nature lovers, an opportunity to escape civilization, soak in sunshine, and enjoy the beauty of the island was exactly what we needed. A few years ago, I discovered the app All Trails which has been a lifesaver, especially for those of us that have a high tendency of getting lost. There was even a trail here and the app helped us stay on track!

Our initial ascent was difficult, as even a simple flight of stairs takes my breath away at this altitude. We first walked over the stone steps through the small village down an entire row of pizzerias before beginning our travels onto the lesser traveled paths. The land on this island is terraced, and probably has been for generations. What we witnessed was that it was probably used to help with a sort of crop rotation as not all pockets were filled with greenery. It also aided with the grazing animals that were often left in one small area during the day before being led back to their homes in the evenings.

Before our arrival, I had read that the northern two-thirds of the island was off limits to tourists due to disagreements to the people who call this land home. I even read about a tourist who had been killed when he crossed the border. But a more recent post had said that the conflict had ended and the island was open. Through Google Translate, our host seemed to say that we could go anywhere, but safe to say, we stepped with care and were courteous and cautious wherever we went.

The first part of our trail was stunning. We walked along the backbone of the island, staying high which meant the walk was fairly easy and comfortable. It was wide open with only a few patches of trees and even fewer dwellings. 

We did not make it all the way to the Northern tip of the island, but decided instead to cut across and catch up with the southbound trail on the eastern side of the island. The “cut through” trail was not nearly as clearly marked, and there were many a rock scrambles on our part, but we made it to the other side in the middle of a small community. The second half of the trail led us through three communities, much more populated than the first half of our journey. But even then, I’m pretty sure we saw more donkeys than people. Certainly more livestock of donkeys, sheep and pigs than people.

Donkeys are a vital part of life on the island. There are no motorized vehicles and very steep paths. How else do restaurants, lodges and individuals get what they need from the boats that deliver them? Donkeys of course! They expertly ease their way up and down the stone steps reaching for something to nibble on whenever their guide turns his/her gaze.

We often saw pigs and sheep seemingly left alone in the middle of no where tied to a bush or rock to allow them graze in a new place but not wander off wherever they please.

There are a fair amount of restaurants on the island, but it baffles me how they survive as there seem to be incredibly few tourists. We ate at our own tiny hotel for dinner as well as one of the pizzerias. In each, I believe we were the only customer for the night. They offer a fairly expansive menu, but with so few customers, nothing is pre-made. So, there’s no “fast food” here. Perhaps one reason pizza is so popular on the island is because it can be made so quickly. We watched the sunset from the pizzeria while the beautiful young cook prepared our pizza with a baby strapped to her back.

The women on this island are incredible. Most that we saw were dressed in traditional clothing that the cholitas would wear. They climb these hills with goods to sell or work in the fields not only in thick beautiful skirts but in dress shoes. I had a hard enough time on the ancient Incan steps in my hiking shoes while these women moved about in lovely, often ornate flats. Island life can’t be easy, but I imagine for many, it is all they know. There is electricity here and we’ve seen people on cell phones. Many try to make money off the tourists that visit although I can’t imagine there are ever all that many. So most seem to live off the land with crops they grow and animals they raise. We saw many women knitting and creating beautiful works of art from wool. These are hearty folks, and I mean that not only are they tough, but their hearts are also huge. What kind, generous people we have found here.

We also took time to sit on the balcony. The air was cool, but the sun was warm. It was one of those days where you could have been equally comfortable in a tank top or a jacket and we often rotated between the two, and it seems fitting that we both turned a bit pinker on the Island of the Sun. We sat for hours reading, blogging and observing. I would say people watching, but as there was little of that, it was more animal watching. The nursing home where my grandmother spent the last few years of her life had a donkey. Random, I know. But we learned that if you honked your horn, he’d come running and respond in kind. It always made us laugh. Here, anytime we hear the starting call of the hee-haw that will follow, the corners of our lips pull upward. We can’t help smiling at the silly sound they make! And what a reprieve it has been from honking cars. 

Nights have been cold, windy, and long. This again was perfect! After dinner, we got under the blankets for warmth and watched the Emperor’s New Groove on a phone screen and ate local treats or read and went to bed early. Simple joys of life on the island with no pressure of things that we must see and do.

Our hostess has been so incredibly gracious. She and her family run a small (3 room) hotel. The first night, the other two rooms were rented, but after that we were her only customers. I think most people who come here only stay for a night or two, so I think she’s enjoyed connecting with us as much as we have with her. She prepares a beautiful spread for us each morning. Her meals have been delicious, and I have loved watching her wait in anticipation for our approval. She washed our clothes for us (which was very needed!) and was patient with our American requests. She brought us a heater for our room and taught us how to make the water hot in the shower using only the cold knob. We communicated through small words and Google Translate, but she asked us about our days and showed us stunning sweaters she knitted. She has been an absolute delight!

We came to this island to rest and replenish, and we’ve done exactly what we needed. Walks with great views, delicious hand-prepared meals, time to read and ample hours of sleep have energized us for the next, exciting parts of our trip!

We leave Bolivia this evening. It has been incredible, and I’m so thankful we chose to come to this country. The people have been genuine, kind and overwhelmingly welcoming. The people have rivaled the amazing people of Thailand. And so, as we leave, it is a bit bittersweet. I doubt my roads will lead back here again, and so I say farewell. But to those of you reading, I strongly encourage you to add Bolivia to your list. You will not be disappointed!

More Journeys

Five of the six of us were taking an overnight bus back to La Paz after being dropped off in the heart of Uyuni, so even though we were cold, tired and shower-deprived, we headed to an elegant restaurant with flush toilets and a sink with running water! It’s amazing what you begin to take for granted. We had elegantly prepared and presented meals, and no dish surpassed the $10 mark.

We settled into the buses that feel like luxury with wide, reclining seats and blankets. But sleeping on a rattling bus that makes frequent stops at bright toll booths is not a restful night, but more like trying to sleep in a hospital room.

Thankfully, our bus arrived on time in La Paz. 6 am is cold and dark in the winter, and so our bodies took time to remember that it was in fact morning. We walked a few blocks to a hotel where our next bus, a bit more of a tourist bus, was to pick us up.

I was a bit anxious about meeting this bus, and especially since they showed up two minutes after the allotted 20 minute window, my nerves were on edge, but as everything else has so far, it worked out. 

This bus, operating a bit more for tourists was a nice relief. While the bus was not quite as nice, they held our hands and told us what to do. Otherwise, we would have had to make three connecting buses to get to our next stop. Instead, our guide escorted us off the bus into a ferry, back on the bus, out at a viewpoint and then to Copachabana. 

This is not the Copachabana you sing about, but rather a small town on the edge of Lake Titicaca. We didn’t really have much we wanted to see in the town, so settled on an upstairs balcony where we could watch the few boats come and go, a cat playing with a mouse, men painting their boats and a crew working on some sort of pipe work in the street. Lake Titicaca is known for trout and the trout tacos did not disappoint! 

Perhaps at warmer times, these would be fun, but with the cloud cover and chill in the air, we had no desire!

Our hand-holding guide led us to a small ferry boat after lunch that would take us to our next destination. The Island of the Sun is not far from Copachabana, but the small boats travel at a lovely rock-a-by-baby sort of pace.

So, a little over an hour later, we arrived at our new island home where we will remain for the next few days. There are no cars here and the island is a mountain, which means that you arrive at water-level and must go up to find your accommodations. Although it was not very far, at an altitude of well over 12,000 feet, it only takes a few stair steps before you are out of breath. So thankful for our backpacks instead of rolling suitcases! And so thankful for a gracious host who met us on the pathway and greeted us by name! This is going to be a lovely place to rejuvenate for the next few days!

Winter Solstice

As a kid, I had a friend who always said, “My birthday is June 21, longest day of the year.” As a child, I assumed this was something her mother told her, either to appease her child that she got to celebrate the most or perhaps it had to do with the many hours she had been in labor. This year, for the first time in my life, I experienced June 21 as the shortest day of the year.

First, I want to tell you about our traveling companions for these three days. Iris was originally from China, but had recently graduated from Wake Forest and had a job lined up in New York upon her return from several weeks of solo traveling throughout South America. Henry, a German, was on his third solo trip. After high school, he spent months traveling through Australia and New Zealand, then after his bachelor’s degree, he spent months in South Africa and Namibia. He had just finished his master’s degree, and so was celebrating with a months-long solo tour throughout South America. Kiri, the half-Greek, half-Austrian who grew up in Germany but was currently living in Portugal was seeing as much as he could before taking his first true job back in Germany. I felt sorry for Jacob who joined us on the second day after we had already had so much fun together but the young Englishman was a perfect addition to our group. He had graduated from university, spent a year working in a pub, saving money and now he and a buddy were spending about a half year traveling throughout the continent. He and his mate were unfortunately unable to be placed in the same tour, but he seemed okay to have a bit of time apart.

Much of our time on the second and third day was in the car, but with the wide variety of scenery, that was perfectly enjoyable. We headed south from Uyuni and spent the next two days in the high deserts of Bolivia near the Chilean border.

We started on a paved road through desert landscapes with small bushes, like a high tundra. No trees, and nothing was green, but the small patches provided food for the animals that lived there. We saw vicuñas, which are small, llama-like wild animals. When we couldn’t remember their names, we called them cappuccinos, as that was what they looked like. Although they were always fun to spot, they became like spotting prong-horns out west, frequently spotted in groups, but quickly shying away. We saw herds of llamas with their ears decorated showing they were claimed, much like dairy farmers mark their cows with numbers in their ears. Axel said it would be very rare to see wild llamas and that alpacas were not as common in this area as they were not as hearty as llamas. We also were surprised to spot ostriches along our drive. Although it was cold, the landscape was similar to where I picture them living in Africa. They have obviously found ways to adapt. Axel said there were foxes and pumas that were the predators of the area as well.

The farther we went, the less life we saw. Not only fewer animals, but fewer communities and fewer vegetation. And then there were even no roads. There were vast expanses of nothingness. I’ve seen expanses of nothingness in South Dakota and Kansas, but there were no signs of life over the miles of rocks we traveled. 

We would stop frequently to take photos of the changing landscape, but as the temperature was below freezing and the powerful wind was often hard to walk in, our time outside the car was not very long. There were giant rock fields where we searched for faces or animals like we do passing clouds. 

Axel said he was taking us to Mars, and well, the red rocks filling the landscape were very reminiscent of the red planet. At our highest point of the day, not a peak at all, just a plateau, we got out and fought the wind to stand at just shy of 16,000 feet.

We were on the hunt for a particular animal you don’t expect to live here at all. I was fortunate enough to see flamingos on a tropical isle in the Caribbean, and so it was hard to picture them also in this high desert. We stopped at two lagoons where they often gather, but they were frozen over with no pink dots to be seen. At the third we spotted A flamingo. Yes, a single one. We were able to get fairly close as he searched for the plankton that also have adapted to live here. 

After another hour or so drive over pockets of frozen snow and red rocks that somehow Axel knew the way through, we stopped at a National Park. The sun was near setting and the wind made the temperature barely bearable, but Axel encouraged us to walk around. Despite being miserably cold, we were overjoyed to see flamboyances (just looked that one up, what a fun group name!) of flamingos braving the cold, facing the wind as to not ruffle their feathers and continuing to search for plankton. It was well worth the long drive and the frigid temps! It was while watching flamingos fly off that we watched the sun set on the shortest day of the year.

Our hostel for the night was truly in the middle of nowhere, with no heat and electricity for only a few hours at night to allow us charge our devices. But the building was simple, sturdy and welcoming inside. We had warm tea, soup and pasta to fill our bellies and heat us from the inside. We took turns asking questions to the group to get to know one another as well as different cultures, and as the questions died down, I decided to introduce them to a favorite card game. In high school, I remember many happy hours being spent during breaks and free periods playing Spoons with whatever objects could be found in our backpacks. I remember lots of laughter, occasional scratches between players and sometimes fights “to the death” over the grip of an item. I taught this game to our new friends using chapsticks, rolls of tums, small hand sanitizer and a roll of Dramamine as our “spoons”. It was a hit, and we had so much fun laughing the night away as our fingers slowly lost feeling, but our elevated heart rates during the game seemed to help fight the cold.

Despite the high winds and unbearable temperatures in this heatless building, we were very warm when we slept! We had rented sleeping bags that were well worth the $10 and put them under multiple layers of thick blankets. It was only the getting out of bed the next morning that was difficult!

We awoke early and drove across the barren landscape as we watched the sky lighten and begin to show the faintest color of pink. Mountain peaks showed color before the ground around us, and when we arrived at the geysers, we were able to finally see the sun show her face after the longest night of the year. Some geysers were more bubbling pots of sulphur while others emitted steam. But the wind was so strong that the clouds of steam didn’t go upward but rather blew in front of the sun creating a mystical world.

Our next destination was one we were all excited about but equally nervous. We headed to a pool of hot springs where we were going to get the opportunity to soak. This sounds amazing, right? But what about the part from the changing room to the pool and back again? Yep, getting down to our bathing suits and stepping outside in sub-freezing temperatures just didn’t sound appealing. We were the first group to arrive, and just outside of the pool, in the streams that flowed from the warm water, seagulls were enjoying baths and a lone flamingo meandered about one hundred feet from us, oblivious to our presence as he searched for plankton. Thankful the dressing room was only a few feet from the pool, so we took off our many layers and ran with haste into the steamy pool. It was just deep enough for us to sit in with our heads above the water. We continued asking questions as we admired the stunning scenery around us and the bright sunshine. Our fingers were prunish when Axel told us we must finally leave. The dressing process with two layers of socks, two of pants and four tops is never easy, especially in a small, damp dressing room, but the warm pool was well worth it.

Back on the “road”, still baffled that Axel knew where to go and which tire tracks to follow, I was amazed to sometimes see speed limit signs out here, in the middle of no where. And also baffled that vehicles could even reach those speeds!

We stopped at another part of the National Park for lunch and had another delicious meal (indoors, thankfully). But, just outside, surrounding the mostly frozen lake, I was thrilled to see vicuñas a little closer, and especially see llamas who had no fear of us whatsoever and seemed to enjoy posing for the camera. 

We had seen sheep near by, so when I saw them approaching after lunch, I grabbed by camera and ran back outside. There were young lambs and about a dozen sheep who took off into a side yard next to the building. I’m not sure what was there, but according to the actions of the old cholita who yelled at them, threw things at them and chased them back to the lake, I can assume that they were not supposed to be there.

There were several hours left of our drive back to Uyuni and although we made a few stops to admire the scenery, you remember me saying there was very little signs of life, right? Well, that includes toilets. For the boys, life was much easier. But for us girls in the group, we only had opportunities where there were boulders around, and even then, exposing bare skin to the harsh winds was challenging and incredibly uncomfortable, but it was a tough balance of trying to stay hydrated at the high altitudes and becoming accustomed to using “llama toilets”.

We arrived back in Uyuni just as the sun was setting, and although it was still cold, it was nothing like the cold we had encountered in the high deserts. Bolivia, partway between the size of Texas and Alaska has so much to offer! I can’t wait to see more!

Salt Flats

When I began researching South America, I truly knew very little about the countries and what they had to offer. When I learned of the Salt Flats of Bolivia and saw the hysterical photos that people had taken, Bolivia quickly moved to the top of my list. The Salt Flats did NOT disappoint.

We signed up for a three day tour and did not really know what we were getting into despite long, descriptive paragraphs on the website. I’m going to break the blog into two as the first day was very different from the two that followed.

On our first day, there were five of us, three solo travelers and Jess and I (I’ll tell you more about them tomorrow), and our fearless leader/driver/guide, Axel. Yes, could you have a better name for a guide on the Salt Flats? Axel emanated his name. He wore driving gloves in the Toyota Landcruiser and loved chewing on coca leaves. He was quiet and calm driving over tricky landscapes, but loved being the center of attention as he taught us things about his homeland. He loved teasing us and telling us the jokes that he probably told every group that he took out day after day.

We started with a few stops around the town of Uyuni. First, a train graveyard. From what I understand, Uyuni, like many towns in the Wild West, was developed because of the train. There were mines in the area and Uyuni seemed to be the perfect middle ground for them. As I understand it, Bolivia is an incredibly mineral-rich country, but for reasons beyond my understanding, they are not exporting much of it anymore. Trains still run, but not as frequently. So, some trains that used to run were left out in the elements and now act as a tourist attraction.

We made a quick stop by a talented metal artist who created works of art from metal scraps and was no doubt a friend of Axel.

Then, we started driving out of town toward the Salt Flats. In the distance, you could see flat landscape and bits of white, so we knew it was coming, but as we got closer, Axel had us close our eyes. They were only closed for a minute, but when we opened them, the car was filled with loud astonishments as all we could see was white. It was almost blinding, but incredibly stunning to be surrounded by absolute, total whiteness.

Our first stop was the Salt Hotel. It is no longer in use, partly because the elements don’t allow the salt bricks to last forever, and partly because the locals didn’t like what the use of toilets in the hotel was doing to the environment. But the building is still mostly in tact, so we sat on salt stools surrounding a salt table and ate salt. No, just kidding, it was a beautifully prepared meal of chicken, vegetables, potato and pasta that had been prepared in town.

Then, we drove for about an hour across the salt flats. It was amazing to me how Axel knew where to go. There were no roads or street signs, there was just vast nothingness. But he grew up on the salt flats. In fact, he told stories about how his mom would wrap their heads in cloths before driving on them because sunglasses were not readily available.  Plus, his years as a guide meant that he could use the mountains around the salt flats as a compass.

We stopped at an island. Yes, an island on this barren land where huge cacti grew. From what I understand, this was all once covered by water, an ancient salty lake. My geological understanding is not strong enough to truly understand how the salt flats were formed. But this island is the remains of an ancient volcano that was part of the lake, so many of the “rocks” on the island were actually coral, and perhaps it was there nutrients that allowed other plants to flourish. There were small birds hopping about who probably live here permanently as traveling back and forth would be a most arduous journey. The cactus, I believe saguaro, or at least something similar, stand tall. The tallest on the island was measured at nine meters tall. The first meter or so grows quickly, but after that it only grows about one centimeter a year, so this tells us these guys are no spring chickens! Also, I never knew that the “arms” growing on these cacti are actually baby cacti growing on one another. A short hike to the top gave great views of the island and the expanse of nothing beyond.

We drove for a while longer before stopping in the middle of no where to talk more about the salt flats, notice their interesting hexagonal patterns and the flat “pancake” formations that formed in spots along the way.

Then, came time for the fun! Axel, and I’m certain all of the guides, come up with creative ideas of ways to utilize the salt flats on camera. Because of the flat land, you can have fun playing with perspective. We had fun posing with a dinosaur who looked far larger than us, but in reality was only about eighteen inches tall. We had fun with a Pringles can and all sorts of perspectives. (Check out our fun video: https://youtu.be/fFJgSwZf2gs)

I’m afraid I could have done this all day. Who wants to go to Utah with me and see what we can recreate?

We put on water boots that we had fitted and borrowed earlier in the day to visit the eastern part of the salt flats where a few inches of water stood. Because of this, the reflections were outstanding. It was absolutely freezing, even though I was dressed in four layers with scarf, hat and gloves, but the views were well worth being outside for. 

While we played in the water, Axel set up our sunset celebration. Now, the Pringles and accompanying chocolates were nothing fancy, nor was the inexpensive Bolivian chilled red wine, but I’m not sure I’ll ever have a more stunning sunset toast than what we had that night.

After the ride back to town, dinner with our new friends and a good night’s sleep in a warm hotel, we’d set out on another adventure, but it would be hard to top this day!