When we were on our journeys through the high desert, we talked a lot about where our travels through South America had/were taking us. We mentioned coming to the Island of the Sun and Kiri said, “I went there! There is nothing to do there.” In unison, Jess and I said, “Perfect!”
After several days of rigorous travel, and a few sleepless nights and odd hours, three nights on a remote island with no cars was exactly what we needed. Our time on this island in the sprawling Lake Titicaca has been perfectly restful and rejuvenating. Life on the island is simpler and slower. I say that as a tourist who is thankful for the absence of car horns and the presence of donkey brays. But, life for the islanders is far from simple.
This island, according to Incan myths is the birthplace of the Sun God as well as the world’s first two Incans. While Lake Titicaca itself is the highest navigable water in the world and reaches depths of 920 feet, the Island of the Sun stands even higher above sea level. So, when you arrive, you walk up the ancient Incan stairs to “the fountain of youth,” which, sadly, we felt drinking from may bring us other, unwanted things, rather than perpetual youth.
Unfortunately, I do not speak Spanish, and since we did not take any tours here (nor am I sure ones are offered), what I learned about this island is learned through research and observation. If I say something that is incorrect, please inform me!
Our goal was to relax, rehydrate and enjoy some down time. An eight mile hike certainly doesn’t sound relaxing, but for these nature lovers, an opportunity to escape civilization, soak in sunshine, and enjoy the beauty of the island was exactly what we needed. A few years ago, I discovered the app All Trails which has been a lifesaver, especially for those of us that have a high tendency of getting lost. There was even a trail here and the app helped us stay on track!
Our initial ascent was difficult, as even a simple flight of stairs takes my breath away at this altitude. We first walked over the stone steps through the small village down an entire row of pizzerias before beginning our travels onto the lesser traveled paths. The land on this island is terraced, and probably has been for generations. What we witnessed was that it was probably used to help with a sort of crop rotation as not all pockets were filled with greenery. It also aided with the grazing animals that were often left in one small area during the day before being led back to their homes in the evenings.
Before our arrival, I had read that the northern two-thirds of the island was off limits to tourists due to disagreements to the people who call this land home. I even read about a tourist who had been killed when he crossed the border. But a more recent post had said that the conflict had ended and the island was open. Through Google Translate, our host seemed to say that we could go anywhere, but safe to say, we stepped with care and were courteous and cautious wherever we went.
The first part of our trail was stunning. We walked along the backbone of the island, staying high which meant the walk was fairly easy and comfortable. It was wide open with only a few patches of trees and even fewer dwellings.
We did not make it all the way to the Northern tip of the island, but decided instead to cut across and catch up with the southbound trail on the eastern side of the island. The “cut through” trail was not nearly as clearly marked, and there were many a rock scrambles on our part, but we made it to the other side in the middle of a small community. The second half of the trail led us through three communities, much more populated than the first half of our journey. But even then, I’m pretty sure we saw more donkeys than people. Certainly more livestock of donkeys, sheep and pigs than people.
Donkeys are a vital part of life on the island. There are no motorized vehicles and very steep paths. How else do restaurants, lodges and individuals get what they need from the boats that deliver them? Donkeys of course! They expertly ease their way up and down the stone steps reaching for something to nibble on whenever their guide turns his/her gaze.
We often saw pigs and sheep seemingly left alone in the middle of no where tied to a bush or rock to allow them graze in a new place but not wander off wherever they please.
There are a fair amount of restaurants on the island, but it baffles me how they survive as there seem to be incredibly few tourists. We ate at our own tiny hotel for dinner as well as one of the pizzerias. In each, I believe we were the only customer for the night. They offer a fairly expansive menu, but with so few customers, nothing is pre-made. So, there’s no “fast food” here. Perhaps one reason pizza is so popular on the island is because it can be made so quickly. We watched the sunset from the pizzeria while the beautiful young cook prepared our pizza with a baby strapped to her back.
The women on this island are incredible. Most that we saw were dressed in traditional clothing that the cholitas would wear. They climb these hills with goods to sell or work in the fields not only in thick beautiful skirts but in dress shoes. I had a hard enough time on the ancient Incan steps in my hiking shoes while these women moved about in lovely, often ornate flats. Island life can’t be easy, but I imagine for many, it is all they know. There is electricity here and we’ve seen people on cell phones. Many try to make money off the tourists that visit although I can’t imagine there are ever all that many. So most seem to live off the land with crops they grow and animals they raise. We saw many women knitting and creating beautiful works of art from wool. These are hearty folks, and I mean that not only are they tough, but their hearts are also huge. What kind, generous people we have found here.
We also took time to sit on the balcony. The air was cool, but the sun was warm. It was one of those days where you could have been equally comfortable in a tank top or a jacket and we often rotated between the two, and it seems fitting that we both turned a bit pinker on the Island of the Sun. We sat for hours reading, blogging and observing. I would say people watching, but as there was little of that, it was more animal watching. The nursing home where my grandmother spent the last few years of her life had a donkey. Random, I know. But we learned that if you honked your horn, he’d come running and respond in kind. It always made us laugh. Here, anytime we hear the starting call of the hee-haw that will follow, the corners of our lips pull upward. We can’t help smiling at the silly sound they make! And what a reprieve it has been from honking cars.
Nights have been cold, windy, and long. This again was perfect! After dinner, we got under the blankets for warmth and watched the Emperor’s New Groove on a phone screen and ate local treats or read and went to bed early. Simple joys of life on the island with no pressure of things that we must see and do.
Our hostess has been so incredibly gracious. She and her family run a small (3 room) hotel. The first night, the other two rooms were rented, but after that we were her only customers. I think most people who come here only stay for a night or two, so I think she’s enjoyed connecting with us as much as we have with her. She prepares a beautiful spread for us each morning. Her meals have been delicious, and I have loved watching her wait in anticipation for our approval. She washed our clothes for us (which was very needed!) and was patient with our American requests. She brought us a heater for our room and taught us how to make the water hot in the shower using only the cold knob. We communicated through small words and Google Translate, but she asked us about our days and showed us stunning sweaters she knitted. She has been an absolute delight!
We came to this island to rest and replenish, and we’ve done exactly what we needed. Walks with great views, delicious hand-prepared meals, time to read and ample hours of sleep have energized us for the next, exciting parts of our trip!
We leave Bolivia this evening. It has been incredible, and I’m so thankful we chose to come to this country. The people have been genuine, kind and overwhelmingly welcoming. The people have rivaled the amazing people of Thailand. And so, as we leave, it is a bit bittersweet. I doubt my roads will lead back here again, and so I say farewell. But to those of you reading, I strongly encourage you to add Bolivia to your list. You will not be disappointed!
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