Pole Pole in Zanzibar

In planning our trip, Zanzibar was in my realm of knowledge, but not high on my list of destinations. However, we both talked to enough friends that sang her praises with flying colors, so we added some time on this lovely little island, and I’m so very thankful that we did!

Zanzibar is a fair amount smaller than Rhode Island with a population of about two million people. It is an island that lies about twenty three miles off the coast line of Tanzania. Before 1961, when Tanzania was ruled by the British, the main land country was called Tanganyika. After 1961, the island nation and the mainland joined together, combining their names into one. While they are a joint nation in many ways, there are many in which they are separate entities. For example, there is a president of each. While the mainland has a higher rate of Christianity, the island is close to one hundred percent Muslim, so different holidays are observed by schools.

The island has a long history of being a trade capital, connecting east Africa to the Middle East and Asia. The island was an ideal climate for growing spices, cloves and cinnamon specifically. Unfortunately, it was also a major hub for the East Africa slave trade. This did not completely end until 1907, yes, just over one century ago.

Today, the busy city of Stone Town (so named because the buildings, still today, are made of stone) is central for tourism and trade. We spent a day in this city, with an informational tour guide who shared with us much of the history, most of which, I had little to no clue about.

There are four small islands off the coast of Stone Town. One, called Snake Island, not because of the slithery residents, but because it is really just a grove of mangrove trees whose roots resemble snakes. Another is popular for beach days and snorkeling. Another one is being developed into a fancy hotel resort. The fourth, the one we visited, is called Prison Island. 

After a twenty minute, questionably stable boat ride, we made it to the tiny island. It has great potential for a day escape, but as of right now, there is a lot left to be desired. In the 1800s, the island started as a hospital for those with yellow fever as a way to isolate them from the public. Afterwards, for a few years, while a prison was being built in Stone Town, the hospital was converted to what I can only imagine was a pretty horrific prison. It was only a prison for a few years. Then, in the recent century, a lovely hotel with a luxurious pool looking over the water was built. Sadly, it is now in a state of ruins, but there are hopes of someone building it back up. The prison itself has been turned into a fun, funky bar, a book store, a small museum, a restaurant, and even a space for some artistic demonstrations. 

But the real reason we wanted to go to Prison Island was to see the tortoises. After the island played host to people infected with yellow fever, as a thank you, the island nation of Seychelles sent four tortoises. Today, only one of them remains, and he just celebrated his two hundredth birthday. But don’t worry, he’s not lonely. He’s surrounded by one hundred of his descendants, as well as some peacocks. The young tortoises are kept in enclosures to ensure they don’t accidentally get crushed by their relatives. We did not get as much time with them as we wanted nor did we get to touch them as we had hoped (signs said not to!), but they were still so much fun to see.

Walking around the narrow, hectic streets of Stone Town was a history lesson itself. There were intricate doors carved in Arabic style or Indian style. While the city still has many evident signs of an eclectic mix of cultures, the city is nearly all African now. Freddie Mercury, once the lead singer of Queen, was born here. His home is now a museum. An old fort once used for protection, then for horrific slave markets, is now a venue for performances and a market for local goods. A walk through the food market is always interesting, and perhaps a bit of an olfactory overload.

Our guide picked a local Swahili restaurant where we got to try some pilau rice, vegetable samosas, chapati bread, and rice cake doughnuts (of sorts). All was delicious!

A spice farm tour was also on our agenda, and I learned so much about spices and how they are grown! We saw a nutmeg tree, turmeric and ginger plants along with lots of coconut and banana trees. Did you know that cinnamon is called the “queen of spices”? This is because all parts of the plant can be used. Leaves are dried and ground up into the cinnamon we use. The roots are used as a local replacement for Vicks VapoRub, giving off a strong soothing smell that opens up the naval cavity. And my favorite part…. Do you know where cinnamon sticks come from? I had absolutely no clue, and perhaps that puts me in the minority here, but they come from the bark. They shave the bark off the tree, then, as it dries, it curls into the beautiful sticks we know! Cloves are known as the “king of spices” because behind tourism, they are still the second biggest money maker in Zanzibar. Our tour also included some creative touches of palm woven rings with lantana “gemstones”, palm woven crowns ordained with red flowers, and a man who shimmied up a palm tree faster than I can climb a ladder.

We enjoyed our day in Stone Town, but that was not why we came to Zanzibar.  On our safari, we often heard people say in Swahili, “pole pole” which meant to slow down. Sure, it’s a fun phrase to say (with an accent on the e, not like the thing that holds up a flag), but on the island, people said it to us constantly. Was it just because it was a fun phrase many people knew in Swahili? “Hakuna Matata” was also frequently spoken here. It wasn’t until the end of our time that we learned that “pole pole” is a lifestyle in Zanzibar. It’s to live life slower, to enjoy life at a slower pace. That’s why we came to Zanzibar.

Most of our five days, outside of the one in Stone Town were spent on the beach. We were at an all inclusive resort where the fruity drinks flowed freely, and we were never in want of food. Beach chairs were plentiful and blue water shimmered in the sun. Palm trees offered shade and tiny divisions between groups of tourists. For some reason, standing in a truck, searching for animals for seven days had been exhausting, so this time of relaxation came at the perfect time. Our weather was not perfect, with strong winds and light passages of rain, but we had plenty of sunshine and the winds were not a bother for me to read my e-book on my phone.

We met two cats at the resort, and well, who can think of a better place for a cat to live than a resort? The two were happy, healthy and friendly, making the resort their own, just as most cats take ownership of whatever they see. The calico figured out how to slip by the staff (or more likely they had given up fighting that battle) in the main dining area and walk among the patrons, quietly asking for a small morsel. The large tabby’s domain was the snack bar by the beach where we often found him lounging on chairs.

Jessica, growing up with two older brothers, has a much more adventurous spirit about her when it comes to motor vehicles. So, one day, we satisfied her need for speed and rented a JetSki for a half hour. We zoomed around on the open waves filling our mouths and glasses with salt water. It was fun to be out on the blue water.

Other days, we laid and read. Sometimes we walked along the beach, marveling at the turquoise water and sugar-white sandy beaches while gathering tiny shells and bits of coral. We saw starfish during low tide, but unsure if I was hurting or helping, I only tossed one who had gotten caught upside down on a rope back into the water. My hope is that with quick changes in the tide, they all made their way back in!

Like a cruise, the all-inclusive offered lots of food and entertainment options. We were able to book dinner at the non-buffet restaurants a couple of nights that set out on a jetty over the water. A bar out here also offered stunning views of the sunset. One night, we competed in a Kahoot challenge, but sadly, I don’t know as many flags as I thought I did (and perhaps sitting where you cannot see the first few letters of all the choices would be more helpful). We watched an acrobatic performance one night, although, it was fairly similar to the show the “street performers” on the beach showed us multiple times each day.

The swim-up bar called Hakuna Matata was a fun way to spend afternoons, and I must say, I think I’d have a much better outlook on life if I could accept that as a way of thinking! For now, as I continue to work on this life goal, I’ll just be thankful for the pole pole time I had in Zanzibar!

Tanzania

While I am still technically in Tanzania, I have left the mainland behind, so I feel it is time to sing the praises of Tanzania! Please keep in mind that I realize when writing this that I was pampered throughout my week, and I know that contributes greatly to my opinion. But I do believe it was much more than that that contributed to my high praises. However, on our first day, we had woken up in a tent that we put up in an old parking lot in Rwanda and arrived in Tanzania to hot washcloths, a fresh smoothie and a clean, white bedspread with rose petals.

First off, I heard the name of this country pronounced three different ways by the people here, so I’m not certain which is correct:Tan-zuh-nia, Tan-zah-nia and Tan-zay-nia (rhymes with mania).

A lot of our praise needs to go to Tanzania Specialists. Jess had found them through an Instagram ad, and it couldn’t have been a bigger success. They worked with us to plan the perfect safari for us, and while no, it was not cheap, for all that we got, we felt it was incredibly reasonable. There are more safari companies here than you could ever count, but I will say that Tanzania Specialists stood out as the most commonly seen one. So, I can confidently recommend them, not just based on our excellent experience.

They sent us a Swahili guide to practice before we arrived. It came with some incredibly useful phrases like “My name is_,” “Go back, there is an elephant,” “Can I try to carry this bucket on my head,” and “I’m surprised you can sit on a motorcycle with five people.” Sadly, we only mastered a few things like asante sana (thank you, and yes, that’s what Rafiki sang), simba (lion), pumba (warthog), twiga (giraffe), mbu (mosquito), hakuna matata (no worries), mjoa mbili tatu (1, 2, 3) and simama, paka (stop, a cat!). I told Innocent, who picked us up from the airport, that I had been practicing “Simama, paka!” and he laughed a lot. He said, “You know that won’t stop the lion from eating you.” 

Tanzania Specialists also provided us with a beautiful metal water bottle, a map, a detailed itinerary and an in country Happiness Manager. Yes, that’s correct. We were able to text Irene at any time if we were not happy. We never texted her.

Tanzania is dotted with huge sunflowers everywhere you look. These giant yellow flowers seem to be welcoming you, showing you just how bright and cheerful this country is. Sure, they are grown for their cooking oil, but I’d say they’re quite symbolic of the people they represent as well.

Tanzania’s animal is a giraffe. As Lou tells it, this seems to match the personality of their government. Other countries near by have mascots of lions and gorillas. Lou said their governments often get into squabbles and struggle where here, things seem to go smoothly. Tanzania is a country, larger than Texas, with a population of nearly seventy million people. There are one hundred twenty local and tribal languages spoken, but Swahili is spoken by all, uniting them with a mother tongue. They currently have a female president (yes, before we do!). She was the vice president when the president died in office. Her picture is posted everywhere! She is Muslim like a third of the people here.

Our first hotel, Pazuri Inn was a dream, and the most amazing part was, we only thought we were spoiled there. At night, the air filled with the sweet smell of jasmine where the flowers only open after dark releasing their fragrance. The staff were friendly, welcoming and eager to get to know us. Emmy took us on a tour one day so that we could see the fresh garden where lettuces and strawberries were grown and the lush orchard where fruits I had trouble naming grew in plenty. There was guava, papaya, avocado, orange, mango, banana, passion fruit and coconut. The food was delicious and plentiful, and one night we even got to help the young chef celebrate his birthday!

Our next stay was at Mawe Mawe Manyara Lodge. I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a room this nice, nor can I imagine doing that in the future. Our room was more like an apartment with an open concept with two large beds, a seating area, a changing room, a full bathroom and three sliding glass doors that opened onto our private balcony overlooking the lake with our own chilly pool and outdoor shower. Our first night there, some adorable creatures scurried about outside while we dipped in the pool. They seemed to yell at us in frustration of being in their space. Lou told us later that they were dwarf mongooses! So cute!

The staff at Mawe Mawe were also exceptional. At night, we had an escort of a Masai armed with a flashlight and a stick. One night, although he did not disturb us, an elephant was spotted mere yards from our room! Meals were high class and delivered with a silver cloche covering each course (this is where we learned to count down).

Our stay in the middle of the Serengeti was called Sueños De Africa Luxury Camp. We were in tents, yes, but these tents were luxurious with steaming hot showers and four poster beds. Here, too, our escorts in the dark were armed with flashlights. Food was not as divine, but for being in the middle of the Serengeti, it was quite delicious and the boxed lunches were some of our best!

Our last stay in Tanzania was at a place called Manyara Best View Lodge, and it lived up to its name! We watched the moon rise over distant mountains above the banana fields below, and watched the sunrise in a similar place the next morning. Food was beautifully presented and equally delicious, while the service was above and beyond.

When you are as fortunate as we were to see so many different parks, you certainly spend your time driving throughout the countryside. Of course, this was a beautiful way to see the country. There were places that were lush and green and full of crops, while others were barren, dry, and stark. As we rode, Lou told us a lot about the Masai people who called this place home. They were easy to identify by their clothing. While some wore clothes that we would deem “regular”, almost all also wore brightly colored checkered fabric. Most often, it was red, and worn perhaps as we would wear a toga. They are the local, indigenous tribe that still call this part of the country, as well as the sister part just across the border in Kenya, home. They live in harmony with the land and the animals. While they eat meat, they only eat the cows, goats, and chickens that they themselves raise. Sort of like the reservations set aside for our Native Americans, while they do follow the laws of the land, there are aspects of their lives that keep them separated, and are not as regulated by the government. They live in small communities with huts, built of sticks and cow dung in a circular pattern surrounded by bushy branches that protect from predators. They are somewhat nomadic, but move by the seasons, or when there is no more food left for their grazing herds. Their cows are their life. Not only are they providers of food and strength, they are representation of wealth. I have a beautiful picture book in my classroom called 14 Cows for America  that highlights the gift of cows given in honor of America after the events of September 11. After seeing these people and the way that they live, I was even more touched by their gift.

If all you learned about Tanzania is that they are a people of giraffes and sunflowers, I feel that is enough to understand them. What a beautiful country!

Ode to Ludallah

For seven grand days, Lou was our guide.

He showed us dozens of animals though some did hide!

On first impression we found him a bit curmudgeonic,

But we learned he was just very wise and stoic.

It’s no wonder a giraffe is his favorite animal,

As he, too, is quiet, tall, and stable.

He did not ask us a question, not any.

But with great patience he answered my very, very many.

He started as a guide thirty seven years ago,

So there was not very much that he did not know.

His English was deliberate and oh so thoughtful,

To understand it all, I had to listen real careful.

He drove us around from park to national park,

Through landscape that was beautiful and stark.

Sometimes he drove with great speed,

But was careful if it was the need.

It took him awhile to begin to joke with us,

But then when he did, his laugh was infectious.

At lunch while we ate, he kept the monkeys at bay,

I think they were just worried about what he might say.

While driving, he listened to others on the radio,

Hoping they would lead us to the lion and rhino.

No matter how many times I would joke, “Now we find the cat?”

He would always solemnly answer, “I cannot guarantee that.”

We’d often stop for the guides to have a chat,

But thankfully they usually shared how to find a cat!

He tried his hardest to find us a lay-oh-pard in a tree,

And finally, finally, on our last night we did see!

In fact, he led us to all of Africa’s big five,

And thankfully in the process he kept us alive!

He called us “Wonderful Women” when we learned how to put up the top,

But never learned our names and instead called us clients nonstop.

Perhaps we were just too common for dear Lou,

After all, he’s been on the National Geographic crew.

Lou certainly had his rules and many particular ways,

But who doesn’t with more experience and aged on in days?

He pulled over on roadsides to show us plants or share some info,

And when viewing animals, he’d find the best vantage spots to go.

Lou often turned left when all the others turned right,

Finding animals with keen instinct and solely on insight.

Despite his indifference, he cared for us, I have quite the hunch,

For he found us lions, opened our doors, and carried our lunch.

I give thanks for this full week I will always treasure,

And Lou, dear sir, it has been quite the pleasure.

Many thanks for Jessica for help with some rhyming couplets. And apologies to Mrs. Tuohy, my late, great English teacher as I hope my poetry writing skills would make her giggle rather than cringe. 

Ngorogoro Crater

A few months ago, for Women’s History month, National Geographic released a series called Queens about matriarchal families in the animal kingdom. I watched the first episode about lions and hyenas and was truly blown away. It wasn’t until several weeks later that I put it together that I was going to that exact place on my safari in Tanzania.

Ngorogoro is a massive crater, probably formed from a volcano imploding millions of years ago. The bottom of the crater is above a mile high in altitude while the crest of the crater rises about fifteen hundred feet above that.

Today, the crater is a massive retreat full of lush greenery and animals galore. It has an abundance of water, with open prairies as well as a thick jungle. It’s perfect for just about all the African animals, aside from giraffes because apparently their favorite food does not grow there!

On our descent down into the crater we passed hundreds of Masai men dressed in their finest red with sparkling jewelry. Lou only really knew that it was a celebration of sorts, but no matter what, these men and boys were climbing the fifteen hundred feet by foot. While the Masai live all around the crater in the conservation area, no one is allowed to live inside the crater. It is a haven for the animals.

I will admit that my first few minutes in the crater were a bit of a let down. I believe I had hyped this place up so much that perhaps I had set expectations too high. Upon entering, the park was much more crowded than others we had been in, which was a disappointment. Then, the clouds hung heavy and a cold wind blew around us so that I didn’t even want to be in my happy place, standing up in the back of the truck. At our first stop, to see the pink flamingos, none of them would cooperate, then a massive swarm of bugs flew into our open truck. The day was not going as I had hoped.

Then, we saw dozens of crested cranes, adorable Thomson gazelles, and hippos carrying birds on their backs as they bobbed up and down under the surface. The day was picking up. Then, we spotted a stunning elephant with beautiful long tusks in a truly remarkable setting. But wait, there’s more! There were four lions near the elephant, and he chased them away! It was so fun to watch and thankfully no one was hurt!

The day was certainly looking up! There were zebras, buffalo and wildebeests all living harmoniously together while a few warthogs scurried about (with their tails stuck straight up in the air just like Pumba!). There were ostriches and Kori bustards (we had to look up the name because we thought Lou was calling these large birds something else!).

Then, the clouds parts, blue sky appeared and magic happened. A rhino was spotted. The fifth on our Big Five African BINGO card. Sure, he was a long way off, but we saw him (and another one, later!)! The day only continued to get better!

(This is no where near focused, but I love this video for two reasons: you get to see a rhino AND you get to see a warthog run.)

We saw a jackal which was very similarly sized to a fox. A sleepy lion just feet from the road would not be bothered so we could see his glorious mane. Guineas gathered on the road in front of us and elephants marched. 

Just before exiting this spectacular park full of stunning scenery and abundant wildlife, we spotted the largest family of elephants we had seen on our trip and in their fold was the smallest elephant we have see. She was hard to capture with everyone keeping her hidden, but at one point she backed up under her mother’s belly where she, in fact, could fit.

Ngorogoro was an absolute dream; it completely lived up to the hype! I’m so glad my first impression was so utterly wrong. It was a perfect way to end our safaris in Tanzania!

Serengeti

Serengeti means endless plains. I’ve never heard a more apt name for a place as the Serengeti. It stretches on, seemingly endlessly. (I hope my post doesn’t seem as endless!) Much of it is flat, but there are rolling hills and scattered trees and large piles of rock. As Lou tells us, this place once was a lake, then when a volcano erupted, it covered the land in lava. This is why, now, very little can grow here. It’s not desert, just short grasses. Apparently, if it rains, it all turns green for a day. But then, it goes back to dry as what is just under the soil is like concrete, the hardened lava.

The roads here are dirt or gravel and very bumpy. Like an ant trail in a cow pasture, they are fairly easy to find, but how you would know where one goes or how to describe to someone how to get to a specific one seems nearly impossible. Yet, Lou astounded us by turning on road after road and chasing the calls from the radio about sightings. There were times that we wouldn’t see another car for a solid half-hour or more but when a rare animal had been spotted, sometimes a dozen cars would appear out of nowhere.

Jessica and I both suffer from some motion-sickness, but we’ve done amazingly well in the back of Lou’s Toyota Land Cruiser. When inside parks, we’ve actually learned to stand up. As unsafe and bizarre as that may sound, it’s an incredible way to see this vastness. The top of the truck pops up, sort of like a sunroof, but as the roof stays in place, just higher, we are protected from the sun. Standing up inside means that we have fresh air and perfect views of the world around. Like learning to stand in the middle of a moving subway car, it took some getting used to, but there’s enough space for us both to stand in the middle and hold on to each side. Plus, we’re in the park, so we’re not going all that fast. However, there’s so much jostling that our watches register that we’re walking miles upon miles while we’ve barely taken a step. And at the end of the day, it sort of feels like we’ve been riding a horse. Oh, and not only is it incredibly dusty here, but during our stay, they’ve been experiencing stronger than normal winds. My hair may never be the same again. You know how Bridget Jones’ hair looked after driving through the countryside in a convertible with her boyfriend? Picture that, only with dust as well. But it’s all worth it! I think I’ve discovered why we were supposed to wear khaki! It’s because we will all turn that color because of the dust, so might as well be ready to match it! What comes out of our noses and ears at the end of the day is not the color that it is supposed to be!

Speaking of clothing, we were told not to wear blue or black as it would attract the tsetse fly. They are biting flies that carry the sleeping disease. We did encounter a few when we were stopped looking at animals, but Lou reassured us that you needed lots of bites over the years to ever contract the disease. Throughout the pristine natural environment of the park, we did notice, hanging from trees, large blue and black pieces of fabric resembling a flag. These are apparently treated with a chemical so that when the tsetse fly touches these colors it is attracted to, it becomes sterile.

If you get to come to the Serengeti, please do your absolute best not to come in a bus. We saw very few buses, but they did not at all provide the freedom to view or move about as easily as our 4x4 did. Although, if you get the opportunity to come in a school bus like we observed, well, I guess a field trip to the Serengeti is more than acceptable! Also, don’t come in a pick up truck. We were told that even as recent as ten years ago, the elephants were hunted for their tusks in this park. The poachers often drove pick-up trucks and well, elephants still remember that, so these gentle giants often become aggressive with pick-up trucks.

We were lucky enough to have three days in the Serengeti. Our first day included a lot of driving to get into the expansive park, but then we had two more complete days to explore all the nooks of the over eleven thousand square miles.

There are multiple places to stay within the park which is a huge gift! That way, you get to experience night within the park and not have the long distances to cover to get back into the heart of the park. We stayed in tents in the middle of the Serengeti. But don’t worry, not that kind of a tent. Our tent had a four poster bed, a full length mirror, a desk and a seating area, plus a full bathroom with flushing toilet and hot water in the shower. So, no, not your typical campsite by any means. Throughout the night, we heard animal sounds. One night, I swore I heard hyenas laughing. If we needed to leave our tent while it was still dark, we used the walkie-talkie and someone would come, armed with only a flashlight to escort us. There was a large dining tent with buffet meals and a lounge area as well. Each night, a bat made an appearance within the tent, cleverly checking the well-lit area for any unsuspecting bugs that had flown in. There was a large fire-pit surrounded by skulls of animals that had died at the campsite. They are pretty fascinating to look at and try to imagine which animal they once belonged to!

One major highlight was a hot air balloon ride over the Serengeti. This meant that we woke up about four and were driven about an hour and a half into another part of the park. On the way, we saw a hyena. She was in the middle of the road and her stare in the headlights is truly something that will haunt my nightmares for years to come. We also saw the moon set over the Serengeti and as our balloon inflated, we watched the sunrise bringing with it a stunning array of colors. It was close to a full moon, which Carlos, our Spanish balloon pilot said increased the winds. (Who knew? It wreaks havoc on balloon flights, not just classrooms!) I’ve been fortunate to take two balloon flights before, but none of which were loaded like this one. You just climb in, start the fire and up you go, right? Well, no. We were loaded while the basket was turned sideways. So, we were loaded basically on the ground and for a solid ten minutes, the fans blew the balloon up and dust and gravel all over us. Then, Carlos decided it was too windy, and it wasn’t safe. But don’t worry, as we had another day in the Serengeti, this just meant another early morning with a beautiful moon setting and sun rising, and yes, another hyena.

The second day was a bit windy, but nothing like the first. After a few minutes in our awkward position, we were lifted into the air gracefully. Traveling by balloon is truly a peaceful way to see the world. We watched the sun rise over the Serengeti and watched as color slowly appeared in all the corners of the endless plain. We spotted zebras, giraffes, antelopes, wildebeests and even a hyena from up above. Floating just above the tree tops was a perfect height so that we were still able to see the animals below. 

Landing was fairly smooth, although we did land sideways and had to awkwardly climb out. We toasted with champagne and were then driven to a “bush breakfast.” If you’re picturing a banana and a piece of bread as I was you couldn’t be more off track. There were long tables set up with placemats and silverware along with a buffet line complete with an omelette station. It is truly amazing what they have learned to accomplish in this vast open land!

Aside from our two trips to hot air balloon rides, our time in the Serengeti was spent driving around looking for animals, then parking beside them and watching them with fascination. One day we had lunch in the car under a tree while zebra and wildebeests wandered by curiously staring at us. Another, we ate at a picnic spot on a hill where the mice and birds thrived on crumbs left from picnickers over the years.

We got to see hippos! These adorable chubby creatures were so much fun to watch! They were not honestly animals that I assumed were a guarantee, so I was thrilled to find them. They were, however, abundant in the park and easy to find (permanent signs even pointed to them like a zoo!). Since they sunburn easily, they spend their days wallowing in the shallow water leaving just the tops of their faces and their backs above water. Upon first glance, you may just think there are lots of rounded smooth rocks in the water, but look closely! Their ears twitch to get rid of bugs, and the ones on the land have birds perched aside them nibbling the ticks off of them. Often, bubbles arose, but they were never attached to the face ends of what was sticking out of the water! Did you know their poo smells like sulfur? And while they were going (or perhaps it was while passing gas), their little tails would flutter back and forth to keep their backsides clean. Did you know these adorable blubbery creatures are some of the most dangerous animals in the world? These herbivores have jaws that can slice you in two! But if it is any consolation, they won’t eat you after! 

Iggy, a young man who worked at our lodge, had trained to be a ranger. He had lots of stories that he told around the campfire. I haven’t fact checked these, so I can’t say if they are true or if like many campfire stories, there is a touch of legend in them. He said the parks in the south of Tanzania are much more rugged. He said the parks are less settled and the animals are not as accustomed to people. It may take two or three days of driving to get their on difficult roads, but he said it was well worth it because the animals are even larger in size there. He also had his own hippo story. Once, he and a friend were called to a village because a hippo was chasing children. They successfully diverted the hippo’s attention, but then had to run. Iggy got far away then realized he heard no other footsteps, hippo nor human. He turned around to see his friend in the hippo’s mouth. He was poking the hippo in the nose with a stick. Thankfully, the hippo got frustrated and thrust him aside, shattering his ribs and multiple bones throughout his arms and legs. At that point, the hippo launched at Iggy. He had a gun with him, one meant for a zebra, but with several shots, he brought the charging creature down. However, the hippo slid into Iggy knocking him to the ground and breaking several of his bones. When he woke up in the hospital a couple days later, the villagers presented him with a gift of some of the hippo meat. After being boiled for twenty-four hours (!!!), he said it was quite delicious!

We saw lots of birds on our journey of all different sorts and sizes. There were storks and buzzards hanging around a carcass. There were giant ostriches who somehow resembled cancan dancers wearing long tights. A secretary bird was a fun find, especially as he stood atop a tree appearing as a superhero in his mask. There were birds I recognized like herons and cattle egret, who had other friends besides cows. There were guinea fowl who scurried about and often gathered in the road. A plethora of smaller birds from crow size down to the LBBs (this is a technical term I learned from a birder years ago that means little bitty bird) flittered about in colors of bright blue and even iridescent.

The great migration was something I had heard of, but didn’t know a lot about. The wildebeests migrate from the southern part of the Serengeti into Kenya during the dry season. So, we got to see the wildebeests, seemingly all together, in the northern part of the park, already beginning their journey. The crowds of them were substantial, and that in itself was fascinating to see. Before this time, I wasn’t sure I could even describe a wildebeest nor would I have known one if I met it. I enjoyed seeing these creatures up close, although I must admit, they do not have the most intelligent features. They move, gather and stare curiously like cows, but they run like bison who struggle to get their entire front ends into the air. Only the males really make sounds, and they sound like frogs. All of this to say, it was reassuring that it was not they who conspired to murder Mufasa. Their behavior made it even more evident that it was all Scar’s fault.

The antelopes were frequently spotted in our travels and always made us smile. They varied in sizes from tiny dik diks only slightly larger than the rabbits in the park to the impalas who were slightly smaller than our white-tailed dear. The males of the impalas had beautiful curved horns. But a favorite were the Thomson gazelles: slender and about the height of a medium dog. Their tiny tails were constantly swishing back and forth. Sure, it was to keep the flies away, but we lovingly called them the “swishy-swishies.”

I know the big five are called such because of hunting, but to me, I think I’d say that the essential African three are the zebra, elephant and giraffe. These stunning, peaceful creatures were ever-present in the park and always a pleasure to see. We saw multiple elephant families peacefully meandering around slowly eating their weight in greenery. The giraffes are majestic and beautifully blended in with the trees. Sometimes, I think they thought they were perfectly camouflaged as they’d stand still next to a tree as we drove by. Zebra in Swahili translates to donkey with stripes. It is said that people once tried to domesticate zebras because of their similarity to donkeys. Apparently, their backs are too weak to carry much, certainly not a person. When they were led to do work, the zebras refused, showing they belonged to no one. Is it me or does this make them even more likable? Also, should the phrase really be as stubborn as a mule or should it be zebra? Before this trip, I did not think zebras would be camouflaged. I was amazed at how from a distance, these creatures, despite their stark black and white colors somehow blended in beautifully with their surroundings.

Seeing any and all of these animals was a true delight, but of course, it was the cats I was most excited to see! We were lucky (and had a phenomenal guide!) and so we got a glimpse of several big kitties! A cheetah was spotted under a tree, but no one could see her. One truck drove off the trail, close to the tree and up she got, looking quite perturbed. She ran off, just far enough out of reach and laid down again, giving us quite recognizable cat glares. Near the end of our last day in the Serengeti, Lou took us to a tree where the people in a half dozen cars stared. With incredible zoom and some creative thinking, we were able to see some spots. Although, that was about it. After about ten minutes of staring, the generous leopard stretched and moved down to a lower branch in perfect view (although at quite the distance) from us. She stretched, yawned and for about twenty minutes napped in several positions on the branch. Then, after she felt she had done her duty to her loyal subjects, she ascended back up into the cover of the higher branches. So, in thanks to her, we had now seen the fourth of the big five!

When we entered the Serengeti, I have to admit that I was getting nervous that I would not even see a single lion after no sightings in visits to three other parks. This fear was unnecessary. Lions are plentiful in the Serengeti; it is their kingdom. The guides frequently communicate over the radio to let one another know if there are rare animals spotted. They speak Swahili to one another, but they know that we all know the word for lion, Simba. So, they actually use the Swahili word for whiskers so we clients don’t get too excited. My first lion spotting had been in Manyara National Park, but the lion was asleep and upside down, so I only saw the back legs. The first lions we saw in the Serengeti were asleep and mostly hidden by the grass. It was at this point that we assumed that’s all we would see were sleeping cats. Over the next three days, while in the Serengeti, we saw several dozen lions. Most were sleeping, or close to it. Some were right next to the road, so close that if we had opened the window and outstretched our hands, we could have “booped” them on the noses, while others were perched high on a rock in the distance. Some were wandering through the tall grasses, trying to get away from their observers, while others just yawned and went right back to sleep. We saw a pride of fifteen soon after they had slaughtered a buffalo. All the girls were exhausted, lounging about with bloody faces. Lou told us that the kill would have taken a lot of energy, so they were likely recovering from that before they went back to devouring the creature. We went back several hours later and got to watch in amazement and disgust as the girls took turns pulling out organs and nibbling away. While there was a little grumbling at the feast, they were generally good about sharing and not taking too much. Then, just like our house cats, after a few bites, they’d wander back to the shade, bathe, and nap some more. I must admit that I loved watching their affection for each other. These girls are a pride, a family. Although they were all grown (some were certainly a little larger than others), they nuzzled with one another, bathed each other, and laid atop one another. Cats of all sizes are truly cats. 

My time in the Serengeti was truly sensational!