Pole Pole in Zanzibar

In planning our trip, Zanzibar was in my realm of knowledge, but not high on my list of destinations. However, we both talked to enough friends that sang her praises with flying colors, so we added some time on this lovely little island, and I’m so very thankful that we did!

Zanzibar is a fair amount smaller than Rhode Island with a population of about two million people. It is an island that lies about twenty three miles off the coast line of Tanzania. Before 1961, when Tanzania was ruled by the British, the main land country was called Tanganyika. After 1961, the island nation and the mainland joined together, combining their names into one. While they are a joint nation in many ways, there are many in which they are separate entities. For example, there is a president of each. While the mainland has a higher rate of Christianity, the island is close to one hundred percent Muslim, so different holidays are observed by schools.

The island has a long history of being a trade capital, connecting east Africa to the Middle East and Asia. The island was an ideal climate for growing spices, cloves and cinnamon specifically. Unfortunately, it was also a major hub for the East Africa slave trade. This did not completely end until 1907, yes, just over one century ago.

Today, the busy city of Stone Town (so named because the buildings, still today, are made of stone) is central for tourism and trade. We spent a day in this city, with an informational tour guide who shared with us much of the history, most of which, I had little to no clue about.

There are four small islands off the coast of Stone Town. One, called Snake Island, not because of the slithery residents, but because it is really just a grove of mangrove trees whose roots resemble snakes. Another is popular for beach days and snorkeling. Another one is being developed into a fancy hotel resort. The fourth, the one we visited, is called Prison Island. 

After a twenty minute, questionably stable boat ride, we made it to the tiny island. It has great potential for a day escape, but as of right now, there is a lot left to be desired. In the 1800s, the island started as a hospital for those with yellow fever as a way to isolate them from the public. Afterwards, for a few years, while a prison was being built in Stone Town, the hospital was converted to what I can only imagine was a pretty horrific prison. It was only a prison for a few years. Then, in the recent century, a lovely hotel with a luxurious pool looking over the water was built. Sadly, it is now in a state of ruins, but there are hopes of someone building it back up. The prison itself has been turned into a fun, funky bar, a book store, a small museum, a restaurant, and even a space for some artistic demonstrations. 

But the real reason we wanted to go to Prison Island was to see the tortoises. After the island played host to people infected with yellow fever, as a thank you, the island nation of Seychelles sent four tortoises. Today, only one of them remains, and he just celebrated his two hundredth birthday. But don’t worry, he’s not lonely. He’s surrounded by one hundred of his descendants, as well as some peacocks. The young tortoises are kept in enclosures to ensure they don’t accidentally get crushed by their relatives. We did not get as much time with them as we wanted nor did we get to touch them as we had hoped (signs said not to!), but they were still so much fun to see.

Walking around the narrow, hectic streets of Stone Town was a history lesson itself. There were intricate doors carved in Arabic style or Indian style. While the city still has many evident signs of an eclectic mix of cultures, the city is nearly all African now. Freddie Mercury, once the lead singer of Queen, was born here. His home is now a museum. An old fort once used for protection, then for horrific slave markets, is now a venue for performances and a market for local goods. A walk through the food market is always interesting, and perhaps a bit of an olfactory overload.

Our guide picked a local Swahili restaurant where we got to try some pilau rice, vegetable samosas, chapati bread, and rice cake doughnuts (of sorts). All was delicious!

A spice farm tour was also on our agenda, and I learned so much about spices and how they are grown! We saw a nutmeg tree, turmeric and ginger plants along with lots of coconut and banana trees. Did you know that cinnamon is called the “queen of spices”? This is because all parts of the plant can be used. Leaves are dried and ground up into the cinnamon we use. The roots are used as a local replacement for Vicks VapoRub, giving off a strong soothing smell that opens up the naval cavity. And my favorite part…. Do you know where cinnamon sticks come from? I had absolutely no clue, and perhaps that puts me in the minority here, but they come from the bark. They shave the bark off the tree, then, as it dries, it curls into the beautiful sticks we know! Cloves are known as the “king of spices” because behind tourism, they are still the second biggest money maker in Zanzibar. Our tour also included some creative touches of palm woven rings with lantana “gemstones”, palm woven crowns ordained with red flowers, and a man who shimmied up a palm tree faster than I can climb a ladder.

We enjoyed our day in Stone Town, but that was not why we came to Zanzibar.  On our safari, we often heard people say in Swahili, “pole pole” which meant to slow down. Sure, it’s a fun phrase to say (with an accent on the e, not like the thing that holds up a flag), but on the island, people said it to us constantly. Was it just because it was a fun phrase many people knew in Swahili? “Hakuna Matata” was also frequently spoken here. It wasn’t until the end of our time that we learned that “pole pole” is a lifestyle in Zanzibar. It’s to live life slower, to enjoy life at a slower pace. That’s why we came to Zanzibar.

Most of our five days, outside of the one in Stone Town were spent on the beach. We were at an all inclusive resort where the fruity drinks flowed freely, and we were never in want of food. Beach chairs were plentiful and blue water shimmered in the sun. Palm trees offered shade and tiny divisions between groups of tourists. For some reason, standing in a truck, searching for animals for seven days had been exhausting, so this time of relaxation came at the perfect time. Our weather was not perfect, with strong winds and light passages of rain, but we had plenty of sunshine and the winds were not a bother for me to read my e-book on my phone.

We met two cats at the resort, and well, who can think of a better place for a cat to live than a resort? The two were happy, healthy and friendly, making the resort their own, just as most cats take ownership of whatever they see. The calico figured out how to slip by the staff (or more likely they had given up fighting that battle) in the main dining area and walk among the patrons, quietly asking for a small morsel. The large tabby’s domain was the snack bar by the beach where we often found him lounging on chairs.

Jessica, growing up with two older brothers, has a much more adventurous spirit about her when it comes to motor vehicles. So, one day, we satisfied her need for speed and rented a JetSki for a half hour. We zoomed around on the open waves filling our mouths and glasses with salt water. It was fun to be out on the blue water.

Other days, we laid and read. Sometimes we walked along the beach, marveling at the turquoise water and sugar-white sandy beaches while gathering tiny shells and bits of coral. We saw starfish during low tide, but unsure if I was hurting or helping, I only tossed one who had gotten caught upside down on a rope back into the water. My hope is that with quick changes in the tide, they all made their way back in!

Like a cruise, the all-inclusive offered lots of food and entertainment options. We were able to book dinner at the non-buffet restaurants a couple of nights that set out on a jetty over the water. A bar out here also offered stunning views of the sunset. One night, we competed in a Kahoot challenge, but sadly, I don’t know as many flags as I thought I did (and perhaps sitting where you cannot see the first few letters of all the choices would be more helpful). We watched an acrobatic performance one night, although, it was fairly similar to the show the “street performers” on the beach showed us multiple times each day.

The swim-up bar called Hakuna Matata was a fun way to spend afternoons, and I must say, I think I’d have a much better outlook on life if I could accept that as a way of thinking! For now, as I continue to work on this life goal, I’ll just be thankful for the pole pole time I had in Zanzibar!