I will admit that before I started looking into a visit to Africa, I had only a vague recollection of the name Dian Fossey. But, to prepare for my trip, I watched the movie adaptation of her book, Gorillas in the Mist(the book is now on my list) and reread a graphic novel I had in my classroom about Jane Goodall (chimpanzees), Birute Galdikas (orangutans), and Dian Fossey (gorillas).
Dian Fossey was a true pioneer. In the 1960s, she moved to Congo to complete extensive research on mountain gorillas, something that had truly never been done before. She was a young, single female living in the mountains of a country where she did not know the language. Civil War in Congo forced her to cross the border into Rwanda where, in the same mountain range, she set up a camp. With a team of 20-30 locals who supported her work by acting as guides, porters, support staff and fellow researchers, Dian lived and extensively researched gorillas for twenty years. During that time, she formed strong bonds with gorillas, naming them and spending time with them. She learned about how they communicated and communicated with them. She examined their excrement to learn about what they ate as well as their ailments. During this time, gorillas were heavily poached. Body parts such as hands, feet and even heads were sold for high prices along with infant gorillas who were sold to zoos. Dian’s deep understanding and love for the gorillas led her to react to the poachers in some seemingly questionable and perhaps boundary-pushing ways. This likely contributed to her death. While questions still surround her death, she was killed in her cabin by a machete at Christmas when much of her staff was home with their families. It seems we can all draw a similar conclusion here, but there are different theories.
All of this said, it makes sense that a hike to see her grave, in the mountains next to where she buried her favorite gorillas is a highlight for many and something we wanted to do.
When traveling to a foreign country, I find myself often agreeing to something without all of the details. To be fair, there are many times that I could easily be taken advantage of or put in a very compromising situation, but it has always worked out. Also, if there isn’t the tiniest bit of risk involved, are you ever going to have anything happen in your life? So, when traveling there are frequent times we get in someone’s car or enter a building with the hope that we’re doing the right thing and in the right place. Our hike was a similar leap of faith.
Ahead of time, we knew that we were interested in the hike, but we knew very little else. The minimal research I did on the hike itself described it as very manageable and worthwhile. We arrived at Red Rocks Intercultural Exchange Center (our campsite) and were given a list of optional activities we could choose from over our next two days. On the list were things like banana beer making and bracelet making (both of which we participated in) along with the hike to Dian Fossey’s grave.
We were prepared to sign up, but our questions led to confusion and misunderstanding. Most of the people who worked at the campsite were beyond generous, but one, well, there must have been something (upon arrival) we had done that had upset her, and well, she was not patient with our group’s questions. For example, in her spiel about our options, she mentioned that we had to be the Volcanos National Park at 6am for the hike and that it was a full day event. Our information had also included that the hike cost $100 due to the guide and the park permits.
My conversation with her went something like this:
“How much is the hike?”
“$150”
“Oh, wow, we were told $100.”
… “I called the park, it is $75.”
“Do you have any idea how long the hike is either distance or length of time?” (Keep in mind WiFi was not working due to a power outage.)
“I already told you, it is a full day.”
“Yes, but any idea how long?”
“I cannot tell you except it is a full day.”
“Ok, but we will be back for banana beer making at 3:30?”
“Yes, for sure.”
“What time do we need to leave?”
“As I already said, it starts at 6.”
“Yes, I understand that we need to be there at 6, so what time will our ride leave here?”
“6.”
“Oh, so it is close by?”
“No, it is a 40 minute drive.”
We stepped away and asked Nash when he had a chance if perhaps he could investigate more for us. He came back a little while later and said, “The car will be here at 6, it is a twelve minute drive, the hike is two hours and you can also go to the Ellen DeGeneres Museum for free.”
Spoiler alert… our car showed up at 6:45, it was a 45 minute drive, a five hour hike and we did not make it back for banana beer making, only the tasting. But even after the hassle and the misunderstanding, I wouldn’t have traded any part of our day!
Steve picked us up bright and early and could not have been friendlier. Just before the entrance to the museum, he pulled over to an open park where huge recreations of gorillas were created out of bamboo and reeds. An expert in this, Steve told us where to stand and took photos of our group.
Then we entered Volcanos National Park. The entrance was very different to the Impenetrable Forest. There, there had been one large covered seating area and a small, simple toilet area. This entry area had a circular concrete seating areas where small groups could sit, large elaborate restroom areas, multiple administrative buildings, and even a fancy barista which made free coffees to order. (Perhaps this is why it costs nearly twice as much to see gorillas in Rwanda than Uganda!)
Despite the fact that my permit had been booked for Rebecca Smith from Estonia, I was allowed in and our group of six was paired with a teacher from Colorado (the next town over from Jess!) and a couple from London. Cally, our guide, spoke with us for a few minutes before we got back in our car with Steve and drove about thirty minutes to the start of our hike.
The drive there was an adventure in itself. We only thought we had been on tough roads! We went from dirt roads to a slightly rocky road to the last 2-3 miles of a rock road. I mean, it looked like a dry river bed. Did we have seatbelts? That would just be silly! Did we have good handles of which to grab? Why do you ask of such foolish things? So, we bounced, nearly hitting our heads, and were jostled so severely that our Fitbits gave us credit for active minutes.
(I would share the video, but I fear you may get motion sick watching it!)
But, eventually, we did arrive. Our group was joined by several porters who ended up being very helpful in tricky hiking situations, and we set off. The first part of the hike was through farmland where women, often with babies tied to their backs were busy hoeing the dirt mounds where potatoes were growing. The potatoes are harvested here three or four times a year. In alternating plots there were daisies growing. The daisies are made into insect repellent and act as part of a crop rotation to keep the soil healthy.
Even from the start, our walk was a fairly steady upward climb. While our camp was at 5,000 feet, our hike began around 8,500 feet and ended near 10,000 feet.
Through the countryside, sheep bleated at us, cows stared, and women cared for the crops. We met a small chameleon along the way. The way his eyes made full circles about and his tiny hands gripped at limbs around him made us all cackle with delight.
Upon entering the forest, the true start of the National Park, we were joined by two armored guards. When I asked one of the guards if the guns were to scare or kill the buffalo in the forest (no forest elephants here), he said, “Yes.”
There are gorillas in this forest as well (Hello, Dian Fossey!), but we were not on a gorilla trek, and so our chances to see them were slim. Cally was patient and sarcastic though as I often joked about when we would see them and if they were hiding around the corner. His answer was always accompanied with a sly smile. Although they were not around any of the corners we turned, we did find some of their droppings, so they were close!
Our hike was beautiful! After the lush farm land, we entered the National Park. It alternated between huge trees and lush open areas with thick undergrowth that went well above our heads. Our path was rocky and progressively upward.
But upon reaching the area that Dian called home, we could tell why she chose it. The expansive trees spread over bright green ground-coverings that made for a truly stunning, welcoming place. After sneaking through narrow paths surrounded by stinging nettles, this place felt like a retreat.
Thanks to a donation from Sigourney Weaver, the actress who played her in the movie, Dian’s cabin and all of its belongings have been moved to the museum down the hill. So while there are no structures where her base camp and research center once stood, signs tell you where the different buildings once stood. Just beyond the base camp is the graveyard where she had buried many of her favorite gorillas over the years. It is here, next to the animals she loved and spent so much time with that she buried.
We took a break in a small gazebo near her camp for a snack, then headed back down the hill toward the gorgeous countryside and the empty riverbed that doubled as a road.
Ellen DeGeneres has always loved and admired Dian Fossey’s work and as such loved gorillas. So, for her 60th birthday, Ellen’s wife gave her a center in Rwanda meant for research and education. It is now a stunning and incredible place to visit. It is free of charge, but you are asked to donate to the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. Inside is a wealth of information about Dian Fossey, her research and gorillas. There are plaques about some of her favorite gorillas of which she formed tight bonds with. There’s a quiz you can take to find out which one you are most like (I’m most like Titus!). There’s something that teaches about the different gorilla sounds and allows you to mimic the sounds, grading you on how well you do. There’s even a virtual reality experience where you can get up close and personal with a gorilla family. It was a beautiful, and well done facility.
I’m so thankful we took the day to enjoy a gorgeous hike and learn more about a remarkable woman. For the record, we did in fact make it back in time to taste the banana beer, and I’m only sorry we didn’t completely miss the activity…
🙏🙏❤️
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