Caves

Driving out of Croatia today was difficult, not just the sometimes narrow roads that kept us guessing if we were on the right path, but saying goodbye to the country that has been an incredible host to us for the past two weeks.  Croatia is beautiful, and the people are incredibly friendly, going above and beyond to make us feel welcomed.  But, I'm always excited for a new adventure, and so, Slovenia, the 37th stamp in my passport, is our next home away from home.

Slovenia is known for its honey-making, stunning scenery, wine regions, friendly people and can-do spirits.  All of this sounded like a place to visit, and already, she has not disappointed us.  Slovenia is about the size of Massachusetts, and you could drive across it in a few hours, but, well, you shouldn't.  It is nestled between Austria, Germany, Italy and Croatia, taking in and melding together some of the best of each country to make something truly unique and beautiful, whether it is the food, the culture or the language.

In planning our route, I had wanted to visit a castle nestled into a cave, but in researching a bit further, it sounded like the nearby cave, where the temperature is constantly cool, even on a balmy summer day might be an even better first stop in our new host country.  Postojna Caves were discovered, well, re-discovered, in the early eighteen hundreds and were soon a popular tour destination.  There are miles of trails and passage ways underground that lead into chambers large enough for professional basketball games to be played (and even observed) in.  Thirteen miles in all, and in our short tour, I believe we only saw a small fraction of the wonder underground.

The tourist attraction truly feels a bit like Disney World.  There are lovely flower beds, manicured lawns, and friendly people guiding you along.  A smattering of restaurants and gift shops line the walkway to the entrance of the cave.  At particular times, with particular languages, large groups, probably between 50 and 100 people, hop on a train.  Yes, a train, underground.  The most remarkable part was that the railroad in the cave has been operating since 1872.  While only a smidge more thrilling than the train ride at the zoo, the setting was phenomenal.  The train scooted past small chambers and under over-hangings that tested your height.  Stalagmites reached tall trying to reach the narrow stalactites gripping onto the ceiling.  The train came to a stop and the English guide led us through a walk through part of the caves where we got a bit more information, but could also wander a bit on our own pace along the concrete walkways.







The cave has been changing and evolving for about two million years.  It continues to evolve due to the moisture it collects and the underwater river flowing below it.  Even today, the "icicles" from the ceiling and "drip castles" from the floor continue to inch closer to one another, about one centimeter a century.  So, that means just a few inches apart from one another could take about a millennium to fill the gap.  The train ride back took us back to the bright sunshine and warmer temperatures, but the travels through the cave were fascinating.



We also learned about the olm, an aquatic salamander that lives only in caves in certain parts of Europe.  The pink creature can grow up to a foot long (but the tail is about half of the body) and can live for 100 years, only eating every few years.  Blind, but having fingers and toes, the creature is well adapted to live in complete darkness in the underwater river, feasting on cave shrimp and well-adapted beetles.  With red tufts acting as external gills, the creature is reminiscent of a dragon, which is why the very first mention of it, back in the seventeenth century, was a fear that deep in the cave lived a dragon and these were its' hatchings.

Predjama Castle was only a few miles down the road, away from the hoards of tourists.  Not being able to resist a castle, we ventured into the countryside a bit further and enjoyed a delicious schnitzel lunch with the castle in view behind us.  Rick Steves said the castle was certainly worth a look, but the interior was not worth it, so instead, we gazed at it and read the harrowing tales of the nobleman who lived here.  The castle has been around for centuries, beginning mostly in the cave, but slowly being moved to the mouth.  In the 15th century, a nobleman, Erasmus, who had some disagreements, let us say, with the emperor, lived here and used it as a hide-out where he stole from other nobles, making peasants happy just to see the nobleman suffer, not because Erasmus in turn shared with them.  Eventually, soldiers were sent to raid the castle, but as the only entry was through the caves, Erasmus and his men had a huge advantage because they knew the caves.  The soldiers froze and were starved trying to lay siege on the castle, despite the fact that Erasmus' men kept sneaking in and out of the castle.  A new plan was finally concocted which included using a spy in the castle to let soldiers know when Erasmus used the toilet, the outer most section of the castle.  He was "de-throned" by a cannonball.  The castle is not in a really defendable place and was used more as a retreat than a defense in more recent centuries, and after Erasmus’ embarrassing end.





Our drive up the motorway was uneventful, but strikingly beautiful as we approached snow capped peaks in the distance and beautifully manicured fields of hay in lush green valleys.  Despite the torentual rain that hit at just the wrong time, we were able to find our next Air B & B, where for the first time on this trip, our host greeted us, gave us tips for the area and even left us several thoughtful gifts of snacks and fresh fruits.  Despite the seemingly violent name of Bled (pronounced closer to blade), I believe we are going to love this friendly little place!