For our last day in Dubrovnik, I decided I wanted to go for an early (well, not my usual early) morning wander. I stayed within the city walls and chose my turns based on ones I had not yet traveled or ones where I did not see another soul, which were plentiful. Watching a city come to life in the morning is a favorite for me in my travels. I relish watching delivery trucks and locals rushing to work, just to see the bits and pieces that make a city real and operational.
I found many quiet streets with bright geraniums in their window boxes. Laundry was drying in the early sunshine as dogs took their owners for short morning strolls. I walked down the Jesuit Stairs (similar to the Spanish Steps in Rome) without a soul on them. I perused the green market, picking up shiny cherries and beautifully small strawberries for breakfast, then stopped by the bakery for a sausage roll, a croissant and a hazelnut danish. A perfect way to start our last day in this fairy tale land.
Dad and I climbed the 208 steps to the Fort of St. Lawrence, another stunning piece of architecture. The large stone fort atop a rocky cliff overlooks the city and added a level of protection. It was first built in the eleventh century, and has been added onto and reconstructed multiple times. There is little information there about the history, but the views from there of the city are well worth the inexpensive ticket price. (But, learn from our mistakes, and keep your ticket to the city wall to get in the fort for free!) The enjoyable part of the fort was how empty it was. Not necessarily of crowds, but of items that clutter it. Spaces were large, open, expansive and beautiful. It's no wonder Game of Thrones shot many scenes here, or that you can rent it out for your wedding for the modest cost of 4,000 euros.
For the afternoon, the three of us wandered in shops such as the oldest pharmacy in the world that is still working as a pharmacy, and of course tourist shops where we picked up a couple of trinkets. Church doors were open, so we joined fellow tourists to marvel at the unique structures built hundreds of years ago. Then, we ended our week, much like we had started with drinks at Buza II, a small hole in the wall bar with patios complete with outdoor furniture that overlook the teal-blue waters of the Adriatic.
For dinner, we picked up two pizzas (remember that this area was once controlled by Italy, so the Italian influence is strong) and watched the sunset from our rooftop terrace while discussing our favorite parts of Dubrovnik and what adventure awaited us next.
We went back out for some caramel gelato and roamed the city streets for a bit longer, not ready to say our goodbyes to Dubrovnik. We made a stop by the Serbian Orthodox Church, as we did multiple times each day. Not because of the ornate interior, or even the exquisite exterior, but because of what it housed. The church sits just a few steps up from street level and has an iron fence all around the church and the small courtyard in the front. Cats find this a prime spot seemingly because they are away from the heavy foot traffic, can stay easily out of reach, or when they choose to, are at the right height for visitors to stretch out their hands and scratch their backs. I lovingly called it "the cat church," and can't think of a time that I didn't see at least a handful of cats there.
The sound of jazz music had caught our attention several nights, and we went once again to stand by Onofrio's Fountain, listen to the talented musicians, and watch as happy tourists sing and dance along. They played "When the Saints Go Marching In," "Besame Mucho," "New York, New York," and the guitar player even strained his voice to complete a well done Louis Armstrong impression of "What a Wonderful World."
I'm not sure if I'll be back to Dubrovnik, and that thought leaves me wistful. Returning would not be a regret, but the world is full of magical places to discover, and I'm just not sure if I'll make it back here. But, YOU should, and so, I'll leave you with a few tips.
First off, know that the rest of the world is also discovering how wonderful Dubrovnik is, so there are throngs of tourists. If you can come a time besides July or August, do so.
The main street, the Stradun, overflows with masses of people. Stones along the road have been worn slippery smooth because of the foot traffic which has traveled over them for centuries. The hoards of people can be a bit daunting, but it doesn't take away from the majesty of this road. Only steps away, up narrow streets and just a few flights of stairs, one can find solace. There were many spots in the city that seemed perfectly silent, and you would have doubted that thousands of tourists were only yards from you.
I believe that you need at least two full days in Dubrovnik to do it the justice it deserves, plus there are so many restaurants, you need at least that much time to sample a few. With three to five days, you could add on a few side trips that are well worth it.
Staying in the Old Town meant that the fairy tale continued into the night. It is not as convenient, but if you can make it work, I recommend it. Know, going in, though, that there are a lot of stairs. The city is sort of a V shape with the Stradun being the point of the V, and steep climbs up both sides. If you are staying inside the walls, keep something in mind: cars are not allowed. This, as I said, adds to its magic. But, if you are like us, and you do not carry light, that means you may be carrying your luggage up flights of stairs, not knowing exactly where you are going. There are two main gates: the Pile Gate and the Buza Gate. It might be important for you to ensure that your accommodations are close to one of these and/or not far off the flat Stradun.
Walking the walls is an absolute must. It also shouldn't be rushed. There are places to stop and have a drink along the way, and well, why not take the time to enjoy the views from these ancient city walls. Sure, you could walk the walls in the less than an hour, but take your time and soak in the views! Then, save your ticket and go over to the fort where you will see breathtaking views and can marvel at the engineering features of a wall built on a cliff hundreds of years ago.
Spending a few hours on a walking food tour with Dubrovnik Food Story would easily be in my top five list. It was the perfect amount of history mixed in with delicious food and wonderful company. We learned about traditional food and wines of the region, and got to taste a multitude of delicious food. I would recommend doing this early on in your trip! If you have more time in Dubrovnik, I recommend you do the cooking class in the countryside with them!
Make sure to go to one of the Buza bars (not to be confused with the gate at the high side of the city) that can be found outside of the city walls, through a small hole in the wall overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The views they offer are lovely, and it is the perfect atmosphere.
The Island of Lokrum is an easy 15 minute ferry ride, and feels like a reprieve. It is a lovely half-day excursion if you have the time and are seeking time away from fellow tourists.
With more time, outings such as a boat trip to the surrounding islands, sea kayaking or highering a driver to go to Montenegro or Mostar would be well worth it.
As far as food, I did not have a bad meal. But, I did have some truly exceptional meals. One, was on the food tour. We ate at a tiny family-owned restaurant called Moskar, and a dish called "Dalmatian Pasticada" was simply divine. The beef was mouth-wateringly tender and soaked in a goulash type gravy. Another favorite meal was at Stara Loza, where, if you reserve early enough, you can even get a table on the rooftop terrace and enjoy a view while you eat.
My biggest recommendation, however, is just to go. Enjoy the magical city of Dubrovnik and allow yourself to be swept into the fairy tale for just a few short days.
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