Many people choose Split as a destination, and I completely see why, but for us, the afternoon, evening and morning we spent was just perfect. Split, especially after tiny Dubrovnik, was a sprawling metropolis, and we typically enjoy life on a bit slower pace. I must brag on my father though who drove us through the busy streets, even reversing out of some difficult parking situations calmly and without adding a scratch to the rental car.
The town of Split began around the year 300 when Diocletian was about to retire as emperor of Rome, he wanted a palace built for himself by the sea near where he was born. His palace, nearly two thousand years later is still the main attraction in the city. Think of the word palace. What comes to mind? Gold? Ornate details? Fancy furniture? Well, you're not all wrong, but what about a palace that now houses troves of shops, restaurants, and even homes? His palace was so large (2,000 slaves died in the building process) that what remains of it is the town center. Years after he was gone, and mountain communities were escaping war, they came to the palace and started their own town. The outside wall of the palace is only a remnant of what it once was and now is filled with beachy restaurants, bars and souvenir shops.
Once inside the wall, the part of the palace the most intact from its original creation is the basement. The basement was created to help level out the ground for the palace. It housed water that crept in from multiple sources, and years later, when whole communities called it home, they dug holes in the floor above and used the basement as a sewer. It wasn't even discovered until the last century. The basements are a true feat in architectural achievement, keeping a city above them and staying remarkably in tact for centuries upon centuries. They are truly stunning chambers, as well. It is a bit ironic that the spot that once housed the bile of the nobles now houses fashion shows, flower shows and even Daenreys' dragons.
Diocletian's personal chambers are now, well, the personal chambers of many city resident's who's homes have been built atop what remains. But, the entry way remains largely in tact with a large dome shape in a rounded room. Although the top of the dome is now missing, seeing how the rounded surfaces were created by bricks and mortar was remarkable. Inside, we were greeted with four talented Croatian men singing acapella and harmonizing perfectly in the beautiful acoustics of the ancient room.
There are a few churches within the palace walls, but as Diocletian executed Christians, during his time either the buildings did not exist when he was emperor, or some were built to honor him. Ironic how they were converted, eh?
Narrow streets went out from the main square in front of the cathedral lined with banks, restaurants and elegant shops. It is hard to picture that this entire area once was home to one man, and what it must have been like in those days.
There is a large, overpowering statue just outside the city walls honoring Bishop Gregory of Nin. About one thousand years ago, he petitioned the Pope to allow religious services to be spoken in native languages, as opposed to Latin. It is said that if you rub his toe and make a wish, as long as it is not materialistic, your wish will be granted. The statue, dark black, has one very shiny bronze foot. A statue in Dubrovnik of a famous local poet has a shiny noes. Many tourists see this and believe it must be something similar, that it is a good luck measure in some sense of the word. Turns out, that the poet had a very sizable nose, and local children found that entertaining. So much so, that they rubbed it frequently and shined his bronze nose.
Our walk through the narrow, winding streets of the old town of Split continued. It is very obvious where the old palace ends due to the width in the streets. I had commented on how few cats I had seen here as opposed to Dubrovnik where they were nearly as common as the pigeons. Then, we happened upon on elderly gentleman, who obviously made it an afternoon ritual to feed the cats. There were cats lined up in all directions around him. I believe we counted upwards fifteen. They were not argumentative nor pushy. It seemed they all knew the routine, and so just being present in the general vicinity was all it took to ensure a good meal would soon be had.
Our dinner, in an active town square was tasty, and complete with people watching. I might also add that there was a fair amount of dog watching in this seemingly small Old Town area. Many dogs went without leashes, but nevertheless were by their owners' sides, or eagerly chasing the ball that had just been thrown for them.
After dinner, we walked back by the large open square in front of the cathedral. This is one of the largest bars in Europe because the small bar on the square spreads cushions out all over the steps on the sides of the square, greatly expanding its serving capabilities. Once again, entertaining music grabbed our attention, and we joined the throngs of people who gathered to hear "Proud Mary." Sung in this acoustical haven, in front of a church centuries old would make even the great Tina Turner proud.
Split is situated right on the Adriatic Sea, so it is a destination for cruise ships and yachts of all shapes and sizes. It also feels reminiscent of a beach resort town with a long promenade lined with souvenir shops and comfy bars selling beverages with fruit decorations, only missing the small umbrella on top. As Rick Steves has described it, Split has sometimes struggled with its identity, knowing that it could not be the magical Dubrovnik, but also not wanting to be just the standard beach town. That struggle is almost evident. There is true beauty in the city, enthrallment of the harbor and promenade and even the pungent fish market where locals purchase their fresh catches for the day. A pull between old world charm and modern tourism can be seen, even with the quickest of glances into Split.
I am incredibly thankful that we made a stop in Split, for I would have always been curious about what majesties it offered. But, I also believe that our short stay was just enough for us who may prefer life on the quieter side.
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