Weeks ago, I found a company, Dubrovnik Explore, that offered half and full day excursions with a skipper on a small boat around some of the islands. We all leaped at the opportunity, but paid nothing in advance in case the weather was bad. Turns out, it has been the wettest May here anyone can remember.
The closer we got to time, the more anxious my parents got. Their picture of a day out at sea was an image far different than my romanticized one. They pictured a ski boat, bounding over waves taller than the boat, all of us swallowing as much Dramamine as we could find. But, after getting a look at the water yesterday, they were less anxious and agreed to give it a go. I’m so glad we did!
Leo, an adorable university student at the maritime university picked us up at the Old Port promptly at nine after shining the boat. I know little about boats, but this is generally what I would consider a nice ski boat. There was a tiny berth we could have escaped into had the weather gotten bad, a captain and first mates chair along with a bench on the flattened back half of the boat, with a large cushion over the front perfect for lounging in. The weather was not perfect today, but it did not rain! Those of you reading in Alabama, I wish I could blow some of the cool air your way! While it felt plenty warm today, probabaly low 70s, the breeze felt as though it was coming off of snow covered mountains. So, with mostly cloud cover today, I spent much of my time with “chicken skin” as my father calls it. But, no matter what, it was a perfectly glorious day.
My parents had pictured hundreds of boats, like Lake Martin on the 4th of July. It was in fact like visiting the lake on a Tuesday. We were not the only boats on the water, but they were few and far between. And the sea water was almost as smooth as glass and a beautifully clear, turquoise color.
Leo drove us around the city walls, gave us a little bit of history, and then guided us out to three large nearby islands, Kolocep, Lopud and Sipan. These are all part of the Elafite Islands and have been inhabited for centuries. Each island, though large and expansive, was mostly uninhabited (possibly uninhabitable) land, so one or two small port towns were hosts to each island’s two hundred or so residents. One island is where Dubrovnik gets 80% of its olive oil. We were glad we got off the boat and wandered a bit on this island as it was contrastingly different on the exterior and the interior. The outskirts of each island were rocky and dotted with trees that somehow found ways to grow, but just a few hundred meters from the coast, we found a fertile valley with beautifully cultivated farm land. And yes, of course, we tasted and purchased some of the olive oil.
We had a delightful lunch on another island, wandered along the boardwalk, into a small botanical garden and into shops reminiscent of beach shops back home. There were several beaches along the way, but not only are we southerners incredibly spoiled by the sugar white expanses of our beaches, but remember how I said I had chill bumps much of the day? Catching the cool breezes on the boat didn’t seem nearly as inviting if I had been soaking wet. Did we swim in the Adriatic? Not yet. Am I a tad disappointed in myself? Yes. Am I comfortably warm? Yes!
Toward the end of our day, Leo, who reminded me with his young, innocent face and Adriatic-Sea-accent, of Massimo from The Wedding Planner, anchored the boat in a calm harbor. It was here we enjoyed a glass of wine, a bit of warm sunshine and conversations with our gracious host. If you travel without talking, really talking, to a local, you miss out. We asked about schooling, what his family did, how the war had affected he and his family, politics, and so much more. As I found in England, I’m so impressed that students start their course of study in high school, so they spend years learning their craft. He wants to captain large ships, and so went to a maritime high school, and is now nearly finished with his five years at a maritime university.
I’m not sure if our day out at sea was exactly what any of us had pictured, but it was absolutely perfect for the three of us, and I’m very thankful we chose to spend our day that way!
As a side note, I must also mention our incredibly delicious dinner at Stara Loza, just a few blocks away. Ana had recommended it, and once again, she did not disappoint. Mom had a local tuna steak, Dad a veal shank that fell off the bone, and I couldn’t help but order the veal risotto that came with “Parmesan ice cream.” I’m so very thankful for all of the translations of English and the plethora of people that speak our language. The small translation miscues make me smile and help me appreciate the whole experience. Like when our waiter told us about the 250 year old “wine tree” that grew alongside the building. Hoping that you all find plenty of wine trees wherever you go, and cool sea breezes!
No comments:
Post a Comment